KEY POINTS:
Nestled in a back street in the ancient Tokyo district of Asakusa stands the Yushin restaurant.
True to the three Japanese whaling ships from which it takes its name, Yushin sells just about every edible part of the giant mammals - 551 of which were killed in Japan's annual cull in the Southern Ocean this year.
Owner Koji Shingu says his shop and restaurant probably have the widest selection of whale dishes and meat in Japan.
The 60-year-old former construction industry accountant set up his "antenna shop" with the sanction of Japan's Fisheries Ministry five years ago and wants to take the message to a new generation that whale "can be eaten and tastes good".
The 55-seat restaurant is almost empty when NZPA visits just before midday on a Monday, but Mr Shingu says it is a different story on the weekends.
Most diners, he says, are around 50 years old and part of a generation for whom whale was a staple childhood food.
"For the older generation - over 40-45 - they have a lot of nostalgia about eating whale and come for that reason."
Japan's whaling hit a peak in the immediate post-World War II years when the defeated nation struggled to feed its high population.
It is estimated that in 1947, over 40 per cent of the protein in Japanese diets came from whale meat. In the 1960s, it was still above 20 per cent.
Mr Shingu says that is a fundamental difference between Japan and most Western countries, which were rich enough that they only needed to hunt whales for their oil.
He says he feels angry when Westerners attack Japan over the issue without understanding its history.
"To have a proper discussion we need to understand each other's point of view. If you don't understand our point of view there is no way to solve the problem."
Greenpeace Japan whales project leader Junichi Sato says whaling is not an issue high in the minds of most Japanese, and the majority would not care if it stopped tomorrow.
However, he says, many - like Mr Shingu - feel defensive when they see Japan being criticised by foreigners.
The view is borne out by several Tokyo residents questioned by NZPA. Eight out of 10 thought Japan should either stop or reduce its whaling, but many also held the view that attacks by Western activists and politicians were usually ignorant and unfair.
The view was summed up by 26-year-old Yasuko Imanami.
"On TV foreigners often attack Japan even though they don't understand why Japan eats whales. Westerners used to use whale only for oil, but in Japan we used every part of the whale."
A poll of 1047 Japanese commissioned by Greenpeace in 2006 found that overall 35 per cent supported a return to commercial whaling, 26 per cent opposed such a move and the rest did not have an opinion.
But Mr Sato says attitudes are slowly changing.
"Most of the younger generation have now never eaten whale meat. Most of them are familiar with the concept of whale watching and see whales as an animal that should be conserved."
He says despite dramatically increasing its catch, Japan's scientific whaling programme has also suffered several setbacks in recent years.
Last year the Nisshin Maru caught fire in the Southern Ocean, and this year the hunt fell 350 whales short of its 900 target.
The Asahi Shimbun newspaper reported that last year, Kyodo Senpaku - the company contracted to carry out the whaling and sell the meat - was unable to meet its sales targets even after dropping its price by 20 per cent, leaving the scientific whaling body, the Institute of Cetacean Research, in financial difficulty.
Mr Sato says: "The bottom line is to secure the funds for the next year's hunt and if they fail to, then the Government has to pay and I think that is not particularly acceptable to the Japanese public."
Yasuo Utsumi, a 66-year-old manufacturing company director, said whaling should be expanded to protect other fish species. "If whale is overprotected then all the fish will be gone and humans will be the ones suffering."
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Some facts about Tokyo's Yushin whale restaurant:
* Most customers are over the age of 40.
* Sliced whale steak at about $25 is the most popular dish. It is usually served with a small portion of whale sashimi, whale sausage and whale-skin soup.
* The most sought-after cut of meat - onomi - from the base of the tail sells for about $40 for 100gm.
* The most expensive dish on the menu is a $100 multi-course set.
* Other products on sale include tinned minke and fin whale, whale jerky, whale sausage and whale bacon.
* While Yushin is a specialist whale restaurant many other traditional Japanese restaurants sell whale dishes when they are able to obtain the meat at a reasonable price.
- NZPA
* Grant Fleming travelled to Japan with the assistance of the Asia New Zealand Foundation.
