By ALAN PERROTT
The weather is getting better, the America's Cup action is hotting up ... and Viaduct Harbour is ready for action.
A cool spring chilled some of the early enthusiasm around the Viaduct, in downtown Auckland.
But experienced hands among the area's bar and restaurant operators remember the boom times of the 1999-2000 America's Cup and, with summer officially due to start tomorrow and the weather finally warming up, spirits are starting to rise.
"How's the vibe? Just look outside," says Victoria Yorke, manager of nightspot Bubble as lunchtime crowds sun themselves outside.
Despite added attractions such as the Telecom Shed, the number of visitors to the Viaduct has been down on the same time three years ago.
The average daily crowd of 18,500 in November 1999 is down 1000 this month, and venue owners blame the cold, wet and windy days that delayed so many America's Cup races.
But hope springs eternal. The weather can only get better, can't it?
"The best measure is the money coming over the bar," says Ms Yorke.
"We're already ahead of the last cup and we're just warming up.
"When summer comes round it's going to be debaucherous around here."
Bubble slumbers during the day, usually hosting only a few well-heeled patrons distancing themselves from all the hype.
It hits its straps when the dinner crowds pour out at 10.30pm.
"We're getting all sorts: older couples, young Poms and Americans, and sailors from Alinghi, OneWorld and even [luxury super-yacht] Tatoosh," says Ms Yorke.
"The vibe is definitely building, but it's very random. Monday is as likely as Wednesday - you can't pick which nights are going to be really flat out."
A few doors away in the Loaded Hog, co-owner Michael Gill says he considers the cup to be a bonus.
The Hog intends to be around for a while, and Mr Gill says he cannot rely on the income from irregular events such as the cup.
He is happy with how the bar is doing. The only downer was the loss of the Mascalzone Latino crew, who dipped out after the opening round.
"They are Team Tim to us - real party people. We hosted four going-away parties for them in seven days."
As a parting memento, Mr Gill was given a fire-engine-red racing jacket worn by one of the hefty grinders.
Downstairs, Bobby Bunnell has eyes only for the bar's big screen and his fresh pint.
The 43-year-old has just sailed in from Tonga, and is fervently backing the OneWorld syndicate.
"I'm from Seattle so they're my home team.
"I'm hoping to hang around as long as I can. You don't get anything like this at home anymore.
"I hear it's just starting to heat up, but it seems pretty exciting to me already. It's a real international occasion."
In the Telecom tent, Dennis Liu is breathing hard.
The 25-year-old English student from China has just come off the grinding Machines.
"This is wonderful," he puffs through a strong Chinese accent. "So many things I have never seen or tried."
The tent hosts a multinational crowd - you can learn a dozen ways to say "excuse me" by standing near the free video email service for half an hour.
Outside, Molly Hollern is also taking a deep breath.
The Texan came to Auckland to meet her boyfriend, Henry Malmgren, who has been working at the South Pole.
"This is beautiful and it's so easy to breath," she says.
Henry adds: "We didn't hear much about the racing but you've got a heck of a harbour. And judging by all the different flags, you've got a lot of folks to come down here."
In the middle of everything is Tonia Cawood, general manager of the Yellow Boat Taxis.
"There is a real sense of anticipation after the frustration of losing so many racing days," she says.
"You can feel it whenever the sun comes out. Everyone is suddenly up and ready to let rip.
"Look around. We've got superyachts, billionaires and beautiful people."
This is Ms Cawood's first regatta.
"It's a day-by-day thing. We'll see how it's panned out when we've finished.
"But like everyone, I want to be here for the next one as well."
nzherald.co.nz/americascup
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