True cold in the USA

By now I've written about my experiences in Nebraska and Georgia... now I'll take you into Tennessee, Kentucky - and right up to Massachusetts (thank you spell check for helping me spell that one). I have been incredibly lucky with the weather over my 2 weeks in the United States. I have basically followed two large highs on my travels meaning a number of spectacular days with temperatures frequently reaching the low to mid 20s. Meanwhile the places I've been to have had snow storms and flooding since I left.

Nashville, Tennessee, is an amazing city. For those who have never been this is where country singers like Willie Nelson and Johnny Cash became famous. The town is country and music obsessed - even the street corners have country and western coming out of speakers. The weather was stunning, mid 20s every day. The city is a very clean and tidy city with lots of flowers and trees in colour. A definite travel destination if you're near the middle or southern states of America. We took a drive out to Andrew Jackson's former home. Andrew Jackson was the 7th president of America between 1829 and 1837 (had two terms). He was an American war hero who was extremely controversial. He was all for slavery and had hundreds of 'workers' on his farm but also helped shape America and developed a number of rights, including giving the vote to all white men. The positive spin they put on him was that when the slaves demanded rights they used the same democratic process that Andrew Jackson had developed for the whites. Perhaps a sign that Jackson had developed a process that blacks and women could (and did) follow. A bit debatable if that positive spin works or not.

His farm was lovely - but it looked like a farm that you might find in Waikato. One thing was different though. Large trees were missing their trunks about half way up. Several years ago Tennessee was hit by some large tornadoes, one of which went through this historic farm. Tornadoes hit so quickly and so fiercely they can literally snap a hundred year old tree clean in half about mid way up - rather than uprooting it. So the trees were left rooted to the ground and still had a number of branches remaining - so the trees continued to grow. A strange sight to see big maple trees with the trunks stopping half way but the branches have grown up to give the tree a 'normal' appearance.

From Tennessee we drove a couple of thousand kilometres through Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia and then Maryland. This part of America is completely isolated from the rest of the country - and that's the way they like it. North of Tennessee you find mainly white, rural, folk who are as American as a pie cooling on the windowsill. They are religious, they all say "y'all" and a few people I met sounded like Boomhauer from King of the Hill. Couldn't understand a word.

I was headed to Springfield, Kentucky (certain that it was the real life setting of The Simpsons...on reflection I'd say Taihape has a better chance of being Springfield off the Simpsons. Still, what's a several hundred kilometre detour when you're on holiday?). Before Springfield we spent the night in a town called Lebanon (not the name you'd expect to find in the middle of America...turns out we drove through 4 towns called Lebanon since leaving Nashville).

The food in these towns is amazing - of course Kentucky Fried Chicken started in this state, so we had to have KFC (was great too). One place sold frogs legs and catfish.

We had authentic Kentucky fried chicken from a small diner, open late on a Sunday night there in Lebanon. Cedarwood Restaurant served up not only an amazing truly American fried chicken meal, but topped it off with service that you would rarely see in a restaurant anywhere in the world. Big smiles, big accents and big hearts. Our waitress, Katie, couldn't believe she had New Zealanders in the diner. When she asked "where y'all from?" and we said New Zealand, her jaw dropped and her eyes opened wide. I'd say it's a pretty safe bet they don't see too many of us around Lebanon Kentucky. We had a great meal - and we're still talking about it a week later. Their byline - "Your good ol' home town restaurant".

It's easy to see why those in Kentucky might not care too much about the rest of the world. It's not because they're arrogant or hate outsiders...it's simply because they really are in the middle of nowhere. We drove for 3000kms all up over 3 days and hardly saw a view. This is rolling country with hills in the west that slowly climb up to about 1000 metres. The hills are heavily forested - the fall foliage is absolutely amazing. The weather at the moment is perfect for viewing thousands of kilometres of red, gold, orange, brown and green leaves. Wet, cloudy, weather makes it even more stunning and magnificent - we had one of those days with mist rolling through the golden leaves. Stunning.

But it's the isolation of this part of America that shocked me. While Nebraska was certainly baron and in the middle of no where you can't help but think waaaay over that direction is the next state, or the next city. In Kentucky and other states in the north east you are locked in by hills and forests in all directions. It is literally impossible to see 1km down the road in most places, so you don't think big. You think about the next town over, or the next hill over.

For those who have driven the Waioeka Gorge to Gisborne, or the Napier-Taupo highway, you might get a better sense of this countryside. Imagine those roads then add more forest - no farms, no stunning hill tops with big views. Just a road that winds along a river valley for hours. Now imagine houses lining both sides of the roads for the entire trip. THAT is what we went through. I felt claustrophobic in the east of Kentucky and into Virginia... stunning countryside though, but no way could I live there. I like open space and views.

The weather here was lovely. Warmer than average and little wind. Wild deer, squirrels, racoons. Just surreal.

I'm in Boston now, my favourite city of all. It beats New York hands down. For those who love Boston Legal you would love this city even more. In fact, I would say it's one of the most beautiful cities I have ever visited. Red brick homes and streets, incredible architecture, stunning water ways, beautiful parks and the friendliest people we've come across. If the Weather Watch Centre ever sets up a Boston office I might stick my hand up!

Again, I've been blessed with the weather. It was 25 degrees here yesterday...it was hot. Today it's colder, 14 degrees, but I'm on my way out of here to finally catch up with the real cold stuff. I'm flying to Toronto shortly on my way back to New Zealand. I have family in Toronto and have been there several times...I'm prepared for the sudden change to 7 degree highs and bitterly cold winds. And that's mild compared to what's coming up for them in a month or two.

If you have never left New Zealand then you have never ever experienced cold. Trust me on this. Minus 25 degrees at midday with a gale force wind that slices through the bones in your body is true cold...it's a pain that I can't even describe. Luckily I'm not in for anything like that this time around.

I hope you've enjoyed hearing a bit about America - I realise it's a little different to the usual weather blogs I write. Americans - from coast to coast - have all been incredibly friendly and welcoming. This country has changed a lot since 9/11. They seem more united. It's also changed a lot since Bush. They know the rest of the world isn't too happy with them. Even the right wingers feel like the wars need to stop. They agree they need a public health system. They agree they need to work at their public relations. From when we stepped off at LAX, where there were signs saying it is the airport's code of conduct to be polite and friendly to visitors, to the lovely people at Cedarwood Restaurant in Kentucky, to the people in downtown New York - we experienced smiles, helpfulness, tolerance and friendship. The only thing I'm looking forward to not seeing is the American flag everywhere I look. Patriotism is in overdrive here. Flags line roads, bridges, houses, cars, clothes, highrise buildings, even a freight truck we passed had "May God bless America" with a huge flag on it.. I don't understand the need to heavily promote the American dream when you live here. I guess it shows their pride... like a Holden supporter who wears Holden clothes, proudly.

Later this week I'll touch a little on Canada in my blogs but will get back to the New Zealand forecasts too. Of course Guy Fawkes is coming up - and unless I get my time zones wrong I'll try to make sure I have a detailed Guy Fawkes forecast for Thursday - and for the weekend for those delaying your parties until then.

- Philip Duncan

 

Photo: Fall colours in America. Photo / Philip Duncan