'Too many expeditions, too many climbers'

A recently released film marking the 10th anniversary of the worst disaster on Mt Everest claims the "corrupt practices" of climbing expeditions from countries including the United States and NZ have led to fatalities on the mountain.

Prayer Flags follows Taiwanese climber-photographer Makalu Gau's return to Everest 10 years after he was caught in a storm that killed his climbing partner and eight others, including New Zealander Rob Hall.

Gau lost all his fingers and toes to frostbite during the 1996 expedition.

In the film, producer Yoichi Shimatsu claims overcrowding at the summit is a leading cause of fatalities, with "too many expeditions, too many climbers".

He says delays at points near the summit, particularly at "Hillary's Step" - about 200m from the summit - endanger climbers and invite disaster.

Many climbing expeditions, the film alleges, use political pressure and nepotism to obtain climbing permits from the Nepalese Government.

The film's accusations come as no surprise to former New Zealand mountaineer Graeme Dingle, who says he had a quiet word in the ear of "the Nepalese King" to speed up a climbing permit.