The Major Jones swing bridge on the Tongariro River Trail.
The Major Jones swing bridge on the Tongariro River Trail.
Demystifying the differences between the arrival of meteorological and astronomical spring remains a challenge, but we had no such difficulty enjoying the beautiful day this transitional season brought us.
Although sunshine was forecast, grey skies and fog had us either donning woolly hats and raincoats or packing them as a precaution.
Barely metres along the Tongariro River Trail we were regretting that extra clothing and admiring flowering daffodils, kōwhai, rhododendrons and dainty bluebells.
The river hurried along, easily heard even when it could not be seen.
Despite being a little discoloured it seemed like a magnet for fisherpeople.
Major Jones had a motorbike and therefore quick transport to his favoured pool; he was also of formidable size and had a strong voice that soon ensured the pool was regarded as his.
Across the bank we followed the well-maintained, easy trail through native bush, stands of mānuka and even an avenue of Californian redwoods.
Open pasture with views of the Kaimanawa Range bordered the opposite side of the trail and side tracks led to signposted fishing spots.
This is a shared track and walkers are directed down a steep, slippery series of stairs while cyclists have an alternative route to practise cornering down a steep downhill.
We crossed the Red Hut swing bridge to the part of the loop track that borders State Highway 1.
The carpark here was a hub of activity with canoes, prospective paddlers receiving instruction, and even more fisherpeople.
The next section was noisy.
Hidden behind the bushy barrier, trucks hurtle along but pīwakawaka, tῡī, and thrushes managed to make themselves heard over the vehicle racket.
Mānuka, tītoki, tī kōuka jostled for space with old man pines and even an oak tree.
Just before reaching the Tongariro National Trout Centre, we saw a plump kererῡ eying us up from a tree.
Sunlight accentuated its striking, metallic green-purple feathers.
We detoured from the trail to visit the trout centre. No whio chicks were raised here this year.
We had scanned the boulders and banks for sightings along the river — their known habitat — but were unlucky today. We did see many rainbow trout, large fish lazing in the stream and juveniles in the kids’ fishing pond.
Off the centre’s river walk we saw a trout being landed and released not far from the relics of an electric fish barrier. In the late 1960s, this was used to divert trout from going upriver into a chamber where they could be counted.
The information obtained could be used to estimate spawning numbers and assess the effect of the Tongariro Power Scheme on the fishery. It proved not fit for purpose and was used for only about two years.
Trout fishing on the Tongariro has attracted many visitors and admirers.
Zane Grey noted it in The Angler’s El Dorado and the Queen Mother fished here in the 1920s. Trails for her visit were built by prisoners from the nearby prison farm and huts from the fishing camps later shifted to what became the trout centre.
A quick climb uphill had us rejoining the trail and walking through bush to our start point.
En route we met a group of cyclists enjoying time away from Auckland.
What a delicate dance the river and trail must make.
Accommodating walkers, riders, anglers, rafters, canoeists, flow for electricity generation, adjusting to changes in flow and providing home territory and nourishment for aquatic wildlife.
Today she showed us her very best. Next week we will be chasing the round of a little white ball. If you would like to join us on a Monday, or for more information, please email walkersmondaytaupo@gmail.com
