However, in the year he died, 1868, the word made its first appearance in a fashion context. So one can only assume there is a connection. Whatever, since then the ubiquitous cardigan has gone through many a transition. Mostly stylish. Slip past the thought of Henry Higgins. Instead focus on Coco Chanel, Grace Kelly and Michelle Obama.
Coco definitely cast the first die. Long, slouchy (dare I say borrowed from the boys?) with deep V and buttons, her cardigan strode out over those fabulous wide-legged trousers or a long silky pleated skirt with white shirt or easy singlet plus a long string of pearls and stole every fashionista's heart. And it can't have escaped your notice that the omnipresent Chanel jacket - a cut with a very high fashion currency - is actually at heart, a cardigan.
The long, lean, languorous line is one to shrink into. Hides a multiplicity of faults providing it is roomy enough. Slip it off one shoulder and loosen that extra button to indicate a cleavage - suddenly it's also sexy. And that soft touch is sooooo seductive. Since when did stroking the arm of a stiff suit jacket seem appealing? But touching a cardigan sleeve? Now that IS sensual.
St Laurent's latest collection is proof. Reinvented in an oversized, languid shape with hand-hiding sleeves, it comes in luxurious cashmeres and lovely wools. It also showed up in some very improbable yarns like fluffy angora - a texture that perhaps should be worn only by the under-10 brigade, and a topic I will touch on at another time.
But good looks aside, other factors place the cardigan as a top contender for a wardrobe basic. How about warmth and comfort? The world today is often a pretty cold place - emotionally and physically - and the inviting snug of that all-enveloping form, preferably in any-ply cashmere, can be depended upon to provide a wonderful eased-up style. A style which also very successfully breaks down the workplace dress code of the "suit" brigade.
What's more, I find wrapping up in a cuddly knit infinitely more conducive to inspiration. Certainly it's the badge beloved by writers (think Hemingway) or very chic gardeners (Vita Sackville West). In other words the creators. Squishing into a tight pair of trousers or form-fitting skirt and tailored jacket may look switched-on for business, but I personally question the resulting sagacity as the poor body struggles to let the blood reach the brain. Think about it.
Let's not forget the cropped cardigan. Also a strong trend. Picture Grace Kelly in High Society. Or for that matter Michelle Obama in summer. Fresh, luminous young. Downright irresistible. Pretty pastels with pearly buttons, a matching grosgrain binding (or for a real 50s look, the same fabric as the dress); or try a brilliant bright over black - really chic. For something special, swap those basic buttons for a set of unique treasures and you'll have a one-off every friend will covet.
It may be a memory jogger but take it from me; a little slip of a cardigan in silky cashmere slung over the shoulders with a full-skirted floral dress of simple structure is a style cinch this season. Alternatively, a slightly shorter version worn with a full skirt slipped over a T-shirt will arm any wearer with free thought in abundance at the office.
Prada's scooped neck versions from this season suggest leaving that strategic top button undone and shrugged off the shoulder - perfect for going straight from the coalface for a cocktail. Undo a couple more buttons and it's a wrap. I rest my case.
Good places to find a great cardigan? Try Adorno in Three Lamps, Wallace Rose, Workshop and Country Road.
- VIVA
