Janetta Mackay goes ahead of the trends for an in-depth look at developments.
In the beauty business so much talk is about turning back time - and who doesn't want to look better for longer? - but we're looking ahead to find out what the future has in store.
Viva has talked to experts in skincare, haircare, cosmetics, appearance medicine, spa services and retailing, to gain insights into the trends that will determine the way you may one day look, or may long to, and how you will shop and be served.
The near future promises a more personalised focus, catering to time-poor and information-overloaded consumers. Salons are gearing up to deliver quicker treatments and more luxurious experiences; to tap into the latest technology, but share it with hands-on attention. Though these aims might sound counter-intuitive, it's all part of the idea of creating "magic moments" that meld efficiency, efficacy and indulgence.
But is this all wishful thinking and marketing spiel? Maybe partly so, but there's no doubt modern consumers are increasingly demanding and more fickle, so businesses need to be motivated to be nimble and innovative to survive. Those that will thrive, are the ones whose talk of being customer-focused is more than mere lip service.
Key trends to watch for are a greater focus on analysis and diagnosis, more personalised streamlined service and beauty concerns widening to wellness. Examples include DNA testing to predict how your skin will age. This is with us already and will increasingly be used by skincare therapists.
The new SkinDNA test is an Australian- developed system that analyses a client's mouth swab for genetic markers of ageing. Results include likelihood ratings about the extent of collagen breakdown and pigmentation problems, allowing consultants to explain and advise on prescription skincare.
"We're excited by the opportunity to be able to provide something we haven't had before," says Dr Catherine Stone of The Face Place, one of the clinics introducing the service by Pro Beauty. Dr Stone says it is a base tool to be used in combination with visual analysis and discussion.
The use of interactive apps will grow online and on-counter, allowing customers to virtually model new looks. In the US, leading haircare brand Matrix is incorporating Google Glass into its salon services, so a client can get a video file of their stylist demonstrating step-by-step techniques they can follow at home. Already our more progressive salons are using iPads to quickly show clients the latest looks and how they connect back to fashion and wider trends, but the potential social media dialogue has barely begun.
Online is a powerful driver of discussions about sustainability and ingredient origin that companies are factoring in. It also provides a forum for debate about dealing with lifestyle stresses, with these driving a surge in wellness treatments and products.
MAKEUP "Makeup will blend even more invisibly with skin," says Nick Gavrelis, vice-president global product development for M.A.C. This is made possible by new ways of encapsulating pigment particles to provide coverage, diffuse imperfections and allow some of the wearer's natural skin undertones to blend into the colour equation. M.A.C will expand its version of this shade intelligence technology in its Matchmaster foundations and tips more advances in wearable formulas by next year.
Researchers are also looking at how to incorporate long-wearing medical patch polymers with their aquaphobic cousins to make refined, waterproof long-wearing cosmetics that adhere to skin.
Beauty junkies lap up specialised niche products, but popular demand is for hybrid and multi-tasking products for busy women, says Hayley Mowday, brand general manager for Bobbi Brown New Zealand. Increasingly this extends to "good-for-you" makeup, which combines immediate and long-term treatment benefits to improve the quality and appearance of the complexion. This combined makeup-skincare approach is exemplified in the likes of tinted BB creams and suncare designed to be cosmetically pleasing as well as protective.
"Today's beauty consumer craves luxury and instant gratification through new experiences that are specialised and tailormade to her," says Mowday. To this end Bobbi Brown will extend its complimentary makeup lesson menu next year, with other brands also expanding these extras.
Lipstick maker Karren Murrell is looking forward to more investment into research and development into naturally derived pigments to widen colour choice further without resorting to use of colourings.
"Digital will continue to revolutionise the beauty world, with the virtual-reality experience," says Shannon Watts, national marketing director of L'Oreal Paris, Garnier and Maybelline. L'Oreal plans to launch a new makeup testing app here early next year that goes beyond virtual to augmented reality with precise facial recognition through a live mirror camera that keeps the makeup in place on your face even when you move. Clinique also points to more apps and gadgetry.
Diana Howard of Dermalogica believes in ingredients that are "proven rather than promising". Photo / Dermalogica.
SKINCARE
"Today's woman is time-deprived but still cares greatly about her skin health and wants results," says Dr Diana Howard, vice-president of research and development and global education for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute.
The personable scientist, who visited Auckland from her Californian base this year, is big on using ingredients that are proven rather than promising. She is fascinated by the future, but says for now the jury is still out on many hyped ingredients and treatments, including stem cells, growth factors and the like. Peptides are her pick, but not all these engineered molecules are created equal.
The team at Estee Lauder, who pioneered retail use of serums, is researching how skin cells communicate and ways to influence this. Independent scientific studies have shown skin is in different phases around the clock, with damage during the day triggering pigmentation proliferation at night. By targeting the products to interact with skin at optimum times they hope to break the cycle.
Targeting specific areas of skin, such as the neck and decollete, is something Aurelie Felix, senior scientist, research and development at Elizabeth Arden, says is a focus. In the pipeline is a Prevage product with tightening polymers and vitamin A derivatives to help strengthen skin's own matrix.
Brands including Lancome are also looking at inter-cellular communication and rare and luxurious ingredients.
La Prairie is wrapping its peptides in platinum, the idea being they will work longer within the skin.
Clinique education manager Tracey Pedersen says skincare like its Smart Serum is getting smarter in that it can adjust to the needs of the wearer. Meanwhile, Shiseido continues research into how to bolster skin immunology as first seen in its pioneering, newly released Ultimune Serum.
Lauder national training manager Hayley Wren says women are crying out for picture-perfect skin. That's another reason makeup is being pumped with ingredients more traditionally found in skincare.
Skincare products are largely made up of water, with their active ingredients varying widely in strength, so it is no wonder efforts are going into turning water itself active.
Murad is surging ahead with this and has infused the water it uses with osmolytes, small hydrophylic molecules, to act as carriers taking water and other ingredients such as amino acids and antioxidants deeper into skin. Its so-called Replenicell technology is being rolled out across all products.
Another watery way is the French craze for micellar water cleansing. Developed partly so Parisians can avoid using the city's hard water on their skins, this stuff has tiny micelle particles to draw out makeup, sebum and impurities. It is wiped rather than rinsed off and has become a backstage beauty favourite, with L'Oreal planning to launch it locally.
The use of botanical oils for cleansing and moisturising is growing. Oils are being incorporated into souped-up serums, combining science and nature.
Natural skincare companies are increasingly following the approach of Big Beauty in looking to cite clinical trials about the effectiveness of their products. The drive to document is to be applauded, but in the beauty industry generally, too often this is a marketing ploy.
"We're seeing a revolution in both the performance and acceptance of natural skincare, which is only going to continue," says Trilogy's Lisa Wilson.
Savvier customers expect certified naturals rather than being green-washed, says Plantae's Carol Priest.
Matrix Celebrity Stylist George Papanikolas uses the google glass to video a style how-to with a client. Photo / Supplied.
MEN
"One of the fastest growth areas in beauty in the next 10 years will be in men's services," says Nicky Shore, founder of OFF Wax and Brow Bar, which already has a significant male clientele. Male specialist destinations are sure to become the norm."
Expect a steady rise in demand for more male beauty services, ranging from laser hair removal to facial care and body treatments. Guy grooming is already on the up for brows, nails and barbering, the latter supplemented by the facial hair phenomenon. The male urban retreat is with us already, and of course, most trends apply to both sexes.
One to watch is tattoo removal which has increased more than 400 per cent in the past decade and in the United States alone revenue from this is estimated to top $3.14 billion.
APPEARANCE MEDICINE "There will always be people walking around that have clearly been overtreated, but the trend is towards subtle natural results," says nurse specialist Angela Frazer from Prescription Skincare, Remuera.
She rates new smoother, finer facial fillers as ideal for filling fine lines and enhancing lips, without volumising. They can hydrate to soften facial or neck lines and rehydrate the lip area. With Botox the "I haven't had anything done" approach is popular. Injections needs to be personalised. Smaller amounts are being used more artistically.
Dr Stone of The Face Place has a similar outlook, with both specialist injectors saying Botox is increasingly being used to enhance features, lift brows and subtly reshape. She talks of the eight-point lift using injectables to give the face a non-surgical facelift.
Founding co-director of the New Zealand Institute of Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery and member of the Association of Plastic Surgeons Stephen Gilbert, says for people who do not want injectables an alternative is facial fat transfer. This can restore volume loss to a face without a full facelift.
It is done under local anaesthetic by injecting a patient's own fat. Gilbert says the results are permanent and a natural, age-appropriate rejuvenating result, without bruising or scarring. Fat is most commonly used to fill out hollows under the eyes to reduce a tired look, adding back lost volume to cheeks and temples, rebalancing facial symmetry, adding back fullness to lips and reducing fine lines.
Both Frazer and Stone advocate prescription skincare. Frazer says aggressive exfoliation is risky, as does About Face's co-director Marianna Glucina. Recently back from a trip to the Sydney Beauty Expo, she is also wary about the increasing use of needling in salons and clinics, driven, she believes, by the equipment being not as expensive as the likes of lasers. "I worry about clinics putting profits before professionalism."
Even needling pioneer Dr Des Fernandes of Environ Skincare, now has concerns that in the wrong hands the practice may cause skin damage and infection.
Glucina and other clinics are fans of the fractionated laser. She likes that lasers tap into the skin's ability to heal and produce new cells without foreign substances, but says the devices need skilled operators. Younger women are considering them as a preventive strategy, she says, especially as awareness builds of the long-term look that could come from botox and fillers.
Murad's Lisa Travis says the dermatologist-developed skincare company has seen a gap in the market to treat clients in-salon with adult acne and breakouts as well as general concerns.
HAIRCARE "Our services will have to be swift and efficient while remaining pleasurable and relaxing, with the stylist/operator being 100 per cent engaged," says Julie Evans, chief executive of the Rodney Wayne group. Other hair industry leaders agree the salon sector has to deal with people's time pressures. The worldwide general manager for Redken and Pureology, Shane Wolf, says modernising salons and upskilling hairdressers, especially to incorporate digital into consultations and education, is key. The retail space will become a place for play and discovery."
Research shows that despite some indulgent examples, salons generally rank behind other beauty providers as a place to go for "an experience". Technical expertise is critical, but so is ushering in the "please-me" factor. Inroads are being made in prescription services for individual concerns such as hair thinning and condition. Treatments will be offered in extended and quick formats to better cater for client preferences.
Rachael Brown, national marketing manager for Kerastase, says clients want natural-looking hair and are embracing curl, but are eager for help to maintain condition and improve control and colour. An exciting development is a product that preserves the functionality of melanocytes to control melanin in each hair follicle. Details are mostly under wraps, but those who are greying should watch this space.
