Taupō's Monday Walkers begin their ascent on the Devil's Staircase. Photo / Graham Jordan
Taupō's Monday Walkers begin their ascent on the Devil's Staircase. Photo / Graham Jordan
The weather map showed a bright yellow orb centred over Taupō and the Devil’s Staircase beckoned temptingly.
We tumbled out of the bus to a disturbingly cold blast of wind and quickly retreated to rummage in our backpacks for our supplies of warmer, alpine-appropriate, clothing.
One up for the ‘be prepared’ philosophy and minus one to the forecasters!
Eventually, a suitable number of extra layers, woolly hats, coats and gloves were donned and we set off along the Mangatepōpō track.
Initially, this track is flat, wide, gravelled and poled and passes through tussock-covered land edging around old lava flows and following the Mangatepōpō Stream.
We reluctantly left this warm shelter, but with our leader setting a brisk pace to match the brisk morning, we were soon overheating and rearranging our wardrobe.
The glacially carved Mangatepōpō valley is surrounded by different coloured and shaped lava which looked like fields of rocks.
The younger rocks are darker and absorb more heat and therefore provide a harsher environment for plants to establish.
Even so, we saw delicately stemmed gentians bobbing in the wind, and lichens and mosses clinging to rocks.
Monday Walkers set off along the Mangatepōpō Track. Photo / Graham Jordan
Edelweiss, an alpine herb, has adapted by developing radially spaced leaves which maximise photosynthesis.
Soon we were sizing up the Mangatepōpō Saddle, AKA the Devil’s Staircase. It was definitely satanic looking with strange-shaped rock formations and lots of steep steps. There are said to be over 300 but we saved our breath for climbing rather than counting.
It is 300 metres from the foot of the saddle to the top. By then the wind had increased and the wardrobe needed rearranging again.
We needed to be very careful with our footing over the variety of different surfaces.
Zig zags in the track meant some sections were very exposed to the elements, and others were sheltered from the worst of the wind.
We were amazed to see several families with babies and young children tackling some of the track with much less protective clothing than we had.
Taupō's Monday Walkers enjoy the spectacular volcanic landscape on the Mangatepopo Track. Photo / Graham Jordan
Very occasionally the cloud would blow away briefly and we could see different shades of coloured rock on Mt Ngauruhoe.
Suddenly we were in the calmer South Crater which is not like a crater at all. It is a basin, probably glacially carved, filled with sediment and surrounded by volcanic cones. It seemed like a desert pan.
Smaller stones had been swirled into strange scattered circles.
Visibility was poor but the track was poled and we walked as a group.
The flat soon ended and we were climbing again. This time no steps but amazing views down over another valley.
After lunch huddled behind rocks, we made our way down before making a slight detour to view another shallow basin crater. The downward walk was quicker, if a little harder on the knees, and at last, the wind quietened and the sun made a watery appearance.
This was a great day and definitely ‘doable’ with the right gear and perseverance. Next week - March 25 - we have a short easy walk planned. If you would like to join us on a Monday, or for more information, please email walkersmondaytaupo@gmail.com
Wednesday Walkers, March 13, 2024
We started from just beside the lookout at the top of Huka Falls Road and headed along Wairakei Drive before starting down into the Redwood plantation.
The damage caused by last year’s cyclone is by now barely noticeable. There are just one or two sawn logs scattered about.
Several of the Redwoods had shoots sprouting all around the trunk of the tree. This is quite unusual, most of the trees are full of growth high up and have no branches low down.
These new shoots turn straight up and head for the sky. By coincidence, a surprising news item was on the radio last Wednesday saying that there are now more Redwood trees in the UK than in California. They must enjoy a chilly damp climate.
It was a good workout as we clambered up and down the steep slope between the main road and the river several times as we made our way to Huka Falls guided by their mighty roar.
The car park was full of camper vans and coaches, the gushing stream never fails to amaze and delight everyone lucky enough to see it.
Our original plan had been to travel back up Huka Falls Road but the forest tracks drew us back in. The flax bushes were all about in the most vivid of greens, slightly greasy to the touch with fibres extremely strong and plentiful.
Walking 8.2km among avenues of mighty Redwoods must be one of the best treks close to town.
