Lakeman Brewing owners James and Elissa Cooper celebrate winning the Supreme Beer Award at the 2023 New World Beer and Wine Awards, with head brewer Rory Donovan. Photo / Supplied
Lakeman Brewing owners James and Elissa Cooper celebrate winning the Supreme Beer Award at the 2023 New World Beer and Wine Awards, with head brewer Rory Donovan. Photo / Supplied
From a shed in a paddock out the back of Taupō, the ‘Lakeman’ has crafted the finest beer in the country.
Lakeman Brewing has won the supreme award in the fiercely competitive 2023 New World Beer & Cider Awards with its Primate Pilsner.
Owners James and Elissa Cooper turned to beer to solve their problems about 10 years ago, at a time when nitrogen caps were being placed on farmland to protect the Lake Taupō catchment.
Low stocking rates meant farming was a marginal prospect on its own, but the couple had access to pure water from a bore sunk 70 metres below where the brewery sits today.
The couple had no background in beer, other than “just drinking it”, James said, but like all good yarns, this one started with a mate, a beer and an epiphany.
“We were looking for other solutions, and we were in Australia and a mate gave me a bottle of Coopers. My last name is Cooper, and I had a lightbulb moment – let’s turn a negative into a positive. Let’s use that water we’ve been made to protect and make beer out of it, and that’s where the idea stemmed from and has grown.”
Lakeman Brewing owner James Cooper (left) celebrates winning the Supreme Beer Award at the 2023 New World Beer and Wine Awards, with head brewer Rory Donovan. Photo / Supplied
Some of the early brews were a bit hit-and-miss, but they soon improved and, in recent years, have become the stuff of local legend - helped by the very hairy ‘Lakeman’ costume, which James and other staff often wear on special occasions, and the colourful names of the beers; including the very popular six-pack sample pack called the Hairy Box.
“We stand out from the crowd and wanted to make sure we were having fun along the journey.”
Lots of fine-tuning has gone into the Primate Pilsner over the past nine months, and it has clearly wowed the judges of the New World Beer & Cider Awards.
“We have been tweaking the recipe for the last eight to nine months, slowly creeping towards where we wanted it.”
Chair of judges Michael Donaldson said the win was a great story of a “Kiwi can-do attitude”.
“Despite their remote location, rural farm setting and small team, Lakeman has gone from beginner to absolute winner in just 10 years.
“There isn’t anything to hide behind in a crisp, light pilsner, and they’ve created a pitch-perfect New Zealand-style pilsner that beer fans are sure to love.”
Cooper said they already sell beer to supermarkets and liquor merchants all over the country, but the win would open more doors, get them more shelf space and allow them to have a greater range of their beers on shelves.
He said they had grown every year since they started brewing, but had grown a massive 40 per cent in the last six months alone.
The property is still a commercial farm where they finish lambs and run a herd of Simmental cattle on about 285 hectares of land they own or lease, but it is stocked at a much lower rate than other similar farms around the country.
Copper said they “fluked it” when they bought the property and discovered the pure water source 70m down.
“We don’t overstock the place to protect the asset.”
More than 700 beers, ciders and other fermented delights from all around Aotearoa and the world were entered into the competition, and it took an independent panel of 29 judges two days to whittle the field down to the very best brews.
“There are always a few surprises in the top 30, but in nine years of this competition, there’s never been a year quite like 2023,” Donaldson said.
“The beauty of judging entries ‘blind’ – without any branding, labelling or description – means it’s all about what’s in the glass on the day. It puts every entry on an even playing field, giving small, unheralded breweries the same shot at showcasing their work as established beer brands.”
Alongside global brands like Asahi and Tiger and homegrown names like Mac’s, Monteith’s and Steinlager, the 2023 top 30 included a host of legendary local craft brewers and first-time winners.
New to the awards podium this year are:
Ruapehu Brewing Co with their aptly named Unlimited Vis Hazy IPA – one of the first beers off their new production line in Ohakune.
Martinborough Brewery, offering beer fans some hoppy respite from the heart of wine country with their winning IPA Hop Elixir.
Two small breweries from Taranaki which are on the rise – Shining Peak with its Petite Pegasus Session Hazy and Three Sisters with Rumours in the Dark.
Double Vision, representing the craft beer capital of Wellington with their Miramar-made Mouth Party.
Otago Brew School, a hands-on learning environment for students at Otago Polytech Te Pūkenga brewing school, made the grade with a classic dark wheat beer called Klassenbester Dunkelweizen.
“Many of these breweries have remained relatively unknown outside their local regions, until now.
“These wins will give these brew businesses an audience with beer lovers all across New Zealand and a great opportunity to grow their fanbase.”
In addition to the usual bragging rights, the top 30 winners earn shelf space in New World stores nationwide, where thirsty customers look forward to exploring the range and finding new favourites.
Customers will have plenty of amazing options to choose from, as winning drops from well-known New Zealand craft breweries like McLeod’s, Deep Creek, Parrotdog, and Panhead also hit the chiller shelf.
Supreme winner
Top in the rankings as the 2023 New World Beer & Cider Awards’ supreme winner is Taupō’s own Lakeman. Its Primate Pilsner came out on top in the final taste-off against some of the bigger beers in the competition because of its outstanding execution, Donaldson said.
Also making big strides in just a few years is Kingland’s Urbanaut, with three wins in the top 30 for its Silver Palace Citra Hazy IPA, Newtown Hazy IPA and Bronx Double IPA, each showing off different hop varieties.
Bootleg Brewery from Mātangi, Waikato won two places in the top 30 for its flagship Apehanger IPA and an awe-inspiring Belgian-style quadruple, a dark beer described as “big, bold, sweet and spicy”.
Dark beer devotees will also be pleased to see 8 Wired, Burkes Brewing Co, and Sprig + Fern serving up some top porters to the list.
In ciders, Hawkes Bay’s Paynter’s Cider was recognised for its champion drop, The Pilgrim – a super-dry cider with Chardonnay characteristics set to delight traditional cider drinkers.
Zeffer, also from Hawke’s Bay, took two spots with a previously awarded alcoholic ginger beer and a new 0 per cent passionfruit cider, while Morningcider’s Cherry Bomb Cider and Mount Brewing’s Tart Rhubarb Cider rounded out the style with fruity kicks.
