A smoky eye and a red lip is the cosmetic equivalent of a little black dress and as Fashion Week well and truly ran out of steam on day three, the over reliance on this standard glamour look was becoming a tad tiresome.
For both emerging and established designers something else would surely offer greater insight into their ethos. We've seen this theory put into practice to good effect already at a few shows, including the Underground installation, but others have opted for the obvious or makeup so minimal it's all but invisible. Both are a bore.
That said, it's fair enough designers don't want their hair and makeup to overshadow the clothes, but when all three are heading in the same direction it helps. By telling a "story", an idea is sold and this is the key difference between a show and a buyer's look-book.
At Salasai last night, the look helped sell the label's androgynous appeal. This included boldly brushed up brows, an eye wide-ringed in a tan-orange tone and skin brought to life with sheen. It was M.A.C's Amber D in action again, showing that trends are best tweaked. Textured yet flowing hair by Matt Benns at Stephen Marr using Original & Mineral fitted right in with both silks and chunky knits.
At group shows, it's particularly tough to come up with a beauty look that works throughout, so the red lip has become part of the dress code, like perky ponytails and neat buns. We saw this at a morning Designer Showcase, the New Generation show, and later at Annah Stretton, although she mixed it up with a second look of loose curls and burgundy lips. The deeper lip was also used by the Smashbox team, who are doing make-up for the week-long run of Designer Selection shows. They've turned fire-engine red into a deeper cherry and added gold accents to the smoky eye routine, with a second safe show look heavy on the lashes and turning lips a nude matte shade.
