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Home / New Zealand

Secret is 'adding magic' to the dish

By Andrew Bonallack, editor@age.co.nz
Wairarapa Times-Age·
12 Sep, 2014 06:00 PM3 mins to read

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FLYING VISIT: MasterChef judge and chef Simon Gault calling in at Masterton's Copthorne Hotel during his book promotion tour. PHOTO/ANDREW BONALLACK

FLYING VISIT: MasterChef judge and chef Simon Gault calling in at Masterton's Copthorne Hotel during his book promotion tour. PHOTO/ANDREW BONALLACK

Simon Gault is running late to the Copthorne and bookseller David Hedley, who is helping organise Gault's latest cookbook promotion during a guest lunch, calls up the promoter to find out what's happening.

It turns out they're lost; not unusual for those unfamiliar with Masterton. I volunteer to wait out the front.

The promoter pulls up and Gault heads for me as his driver hunts for a park. Gault is in drainpipe jeans and a casual sweat top, which matches his unhurried and confident attitude.

He's interested in how many have turned up for the lunch event, but very happy to give me some time.

Gault is widely known as a judge of MasterChef New Zealand, but owns eight restaurants, including Shed 5 in Wellington.

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His latest book, Simon Gault: Modern Classics, comes with the subheader on Gault's website: "turning the classics upside down". I ask him what he means by that.

He says it's taking the classics from different countries, and adding his "5 per cent magic to them".

"Over the years, I've spent time in different countries - Italy, France, Philippines, Sri Lanka, Mexico - they all have their classics. Even New Zealand roast lamb.

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"It's about doing the classics properly. For example, spaghetti carbonara, with cream sauce - you'd never find that in Italy."

His "magic" with the classics will give people something to talk about when they prepare the dish, he says.

And there's no danger a Michelin chef will roll in his grave at the "magic" he puts in?

Not at all, he says.

"It's being true to a country's traditions."

Gault has travelled from Auckland to Queenstown promoting his book, and the "classic" question frequently pops up: what's your favourite food?

It's a normal question, says Gault. With him, it's what's in the fridge at the time.

"It depends what's in season, what's growing, what excites us."

I tell him Masterton has more than a few budding chefs in training at Ucol. What advice would he give one of those students?

He says he would tell students to go to their restaurants and ask if they could watch the chefs for a night.

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"Then, can I wash dishes for a night?

"Because it doesn't matter how famous you become, you still have to wash the dishes.

"If you can't hack it at a dish sink ... "

He says it is a highly rewarding career, but tough.

"It's putting your heart on a plate, and everyone becomes a critic.

"Be prepared to take some criticism, and don't take it personally," he says.

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"Just find ways to make it better."

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