How better to gauge the nation's Rugby World Cup mood than put a man in a campervan and tell him to get lost?
Matt Johnson checks in from Masterton.
Our RWC road trip was in the Wairarapa and we had seen the light.
And no, it wasn't the All Black manager coming the other way with a torch. Looking for more players breaking curfew. On the misty Rimutaka Range, the marvel of engineering that was the Fell Engine lay dormant. Wheels still. But elsewhere, spirits grew restless by the hour.
If ever there was a place to seek protection from the Lord, it was Masterton.
The ghosts of yuppies who'd arrived for Toast Martinborough then lost their way home could been seen dragging their phantom boatshoes along Hillcrest Street. Outside Hoke Smoke Takeaways in Featherston, one of the contestants for Miss Upper Hutt 2012 was looking for sponsorship; smoking in her Ugboots. It was hard to tell whether she was real or not. Inside, the Pacific oysters seemed to be moving by themselves.