Rugby heaven: tour, tests and tying the knot

Debbie Dolby and Graeme Montague will cruise to Auckland on the Pacific Sun, then get married. Picture / Mark Mitchell

It's one big, over-excited rugby club on board the Pacific Sun as she lies in Lyttelton Harbour.

Yesterday almost 900 Lions fans joined the vessel, which will act as floating hotel and cruise ship for the two weeks of the test series.

Most flew direct from London, via Bangkok, Sydney and Auckland, in a 34-hour marathon.

Among the supporters are Debbie Dolby and her fiance, Graeme Montague. For them this is more than a rugby tour, it's the adventure of a lifetime. And the climax: a wedding in the Wintergardens the moment they arrive in Auckland next week.

"We've got all the rings, the outfits, Gullivers [Tours] have kindly promised a hen and stag night - it's a dream," Mr Montague said. "Everyone we've spoken to since we got here, they're all up for it. It's a genuine party."

The couple, who haven't told their families about their wedding plan, are only mildly worried that an aunt in Auckland may tip off their parents back home.

"We'll call and tell her not to tell," said Mr Montague. "We couldn't get further away, could we!"

Their package, which includes airfares, the cruise from Lyttelton to Nelson, Wellington, Napier and Auckland, plus side trips to Cloudy Bay Winery in Marlborough and a Martin Johnson testimonial dinner, cost 4500 ($11,6000) each. Only the rugby tickets are extra.

The wedding, which includes champagne, flowers, licence, celebrant and photos, is a snip at $2000.

"We're both major rugby fans. This is the adventure of a lifetime," they declared.

This is a relentlessly happy and energetic group. Up on deck the last of the stragglers are boarding one of the free buses to Christchurch or organising helicopter trips.

A group left at 5.30am to go whale watching in Kaikoura, some have headed for the hot springs at Hanmer, the hardiest are skiing. Only a few, in their red Lions shirts, are left rattling around the ship's 11 decks or just staring out at the wooden houses of Lyttelton clinging to the bare hills.

There is plenty to do, huge amounts of food to be eaten in the ship's two formal restaurants and themed cafes and bars. There is also a gym, two Jacuzzis, an art gallery, an internet cafe, a beauty salon and spa, two unheated swimming pools and a medical centre.

Because the ship is only part full, all 900 fans have been upgraded to twin cabins. "We can take 1890 passengers," said Bruce Peters of P&O Cruises Australia. "Even when we get to Wellington and get up to 1180 passengers everyone can have a twin. And they're delighted."

Mr Peters is in charge of what he calls "hotel purchasing and logistics". His main problem today is beer. Even though he doubled the order, the Lions supporters drank the ship out of Guinness on their first night aboard and are hounding him for lager on tap. And they don't look too enthused about Steinlager either.

"I need 100 kegs ... it won't be any more than 20 pallets altogether," he tells his supplier.