I wouldn't go that far with the profiteroles, only because they were chilled, which deadened the taste. Moreover (and this is picky, I know), a French classic is an odd choice on the dessert menu of an Italian restaurant. But the desserts were a conspicuous high point of our meal at this place, which opened shortly before Christmas.
Italia Square is so named because it occupies the sort-of-square central atrium of the Geyser Building, the country's first six-green-star office building, designed by architects Patterson Associates.
The building's credentials are impressive (energy and water savings of 73 per cent and 50 per cent respectively; mostly natural light; fresh - not conditioned - air), but the atrium is not a particularly welcoming space. Hard surfaces echo and the feel is much more Rodeo Drive than Roma. The atmosphere isn't helped by the fact that the piped music comes from Spotify and they haven't even upgraded to the ad-free premium version.
The man behind the venture is Sean Aram, a Sicilian who is making his first venture into hospitality, creating what he describes as a lifelong dream of his late father.
What marketeers would call its point of difference is the fact that the business includes a delicatessen, from which the kitchen sources all its produce. So if you like the ravioli stuffed with walnuts and leeks, you can buy some to take home.
If you do, however, I would recommend you cook them longer than the kitchen did when we ordered them, and give them a bit of a stir: ours were unmistakably undercooked - you could see the dusting flour when you cut into them - although the filling, and its creamy walnut sauce, were delicious.
I was also impressed with the veal scallopini: the slices of meat were thicker than is customary, juicy and tender, though I wasn't sure about the rich mushroom sauce, which rather crowded out the delicacy of the meat.
The same fault bedevilled the insalata caprese: this dish (tomato, mozzarella di bufala, basil) is legendary for its simplicity (black pepper should be the only addition) and the oily basil pesto it was drizzled with should have been on the side of the plate. By contrast, the other entree, a seafood salad, was plain to a fault: tender squid rings and prawns (both of excellent quality) were mixed with green leaves picked too long ago.
There are some attractive options on the menu: the beef tagliata (seared in the pizza oven and served thin-sliced) has to be worth checking out. Chef Gaetano Spinosa (formerly of O'Sarracino) and his team can doubtless excel. They'll need to: there's a lot of good Italian food around these days.
And somebody needs to say that waitresses should never, ever, wear strong perfume, so it might as well be me.
Entrees $18-$22; Pasta/risotto $21-$26; Pizza $19-$22 Mains $29-$39; Desserts $14
Cheers
By Joelle Thomson, joellethomson.com
Affordable barbecue bottles
Breaking out the barbecue and need a hot red? Then try this sexy threesome.
2008 Rioja Gran Familia Reserva $19.99
This 7-year-old red is from Spain's most famous red wine region, Rioja. Tempranilllo shines in this soft, smooth red, aged in oak for at least three years. From finewinedelivery.co.nz
2012 Calmel & Joseph Cotes du Roussillon Villages, $17
This southern French red is my pick of the new Calmel & Joseph wines.
Smooth, dark and full bodied. It is made from syrah, grenache and carignan grapes. winedirect.co.nz
2013 Trinity Hill Tempranillo, $30
John Hancock was the first in this country to make a tempranillo. This brand spanking new 2013 version is youthful but I reckon it is his best yet.
trinityhill.com
Cider a day
Keep your eyes peeled for a trio of hot new ciders from Mac's; Blood Orange & Cardamom, Chilli & Lime and Cranberry & Ginger will be out later this month.
