Rescuer makes Everest summit

Queenstown-based mountain guide Mark Whetu has climbed Everest nine years after he lost all his toes to frostbite on the mountain.

Whetu made his third ascent of the peak as cameraman for an American reality TV programme.

He effectively climbed the mountain twice after abandoning his mid-May attempt 500m from the summit to rescue a fellow mountaineer.

He returned to base camp, then re-climbed the mountain, reaching the summit on May 30, the day after the 50th anniversary of the first ascent by Sir Edmund Hillary.

It also was almost nine years to the day since Whetu had to bivouac 50m below the 8848m summit.

That event led to the death from altitude sickness of his climbing companion, and the amputation of the front part of each of Whetu's feet.

Whetu's partner, Ansja de Boer, said he had sounded really tired after reaching the summit then descending to 7500m, but was now safe back in base camp.

After Whetu's mid-May summit attempt was overtaken by the rescue of the first Arab to climb Everest, Ms de Boer said it had seemed unlikely he would try again.

Then, with their climbing permit expiring on June 1, he and his companion had headed back up Everest "and the weather just came right in the last few days", she said.

"Mark said it was a bit windy on top but very good weather."

Ms de Boer said she had climbed on Everest with Whetu, reaching the first step at 8500m. That made it a little easier to sit at home with their two children while he climbed.

"I know the environment and I really trust his judgment. He's got so much experience on that hill, but the summit day is always nerve-racking for me," she added.

"Mark didn't say anything about the 50th anniversary. May 30 was our youngest son's second birthday and he said it was pretty good to be up there for Nikau's birthday."

Whetu's performance on Everest last month earned him New Zealand Outside magazine's inaugural Person of the Year award. Publisher Mary Hobbs said he won it for the rescue rather than reaching the summit.

"The guy's a hero. He gave up what he set out to do in order to help another climber down the mountain."


- NZPA

Herald Feature: Climbing Everest - The 50th Anniversary\