It's with relief I report that Paris is still Paris. I lived here for several years in my early 20s, and the terror attacks have not slowed or stymied this magic city.
There's definitely increased security (I've acclimatised to Kalashnikovs), but people are getting on with life. For the 40,000 people who've gathered at the COP21 climate conference on the outskirts of the city, that means getting on with the not-insignificant task of saving the planet. All going well, by this time next week, a deal will have been struck that genuinely makes a difference to the lives of our children and grandchildren.
Things got off to a good start, with a record set on day one - more world leaders in one place than at any other time in history. 150 to be precise. And they said all the right things. Barack Obama: "I actually think we're going to do it. I actually think we're going to solve this thing". Prime Minister Justin Trudeau: "Canada is back!"
But will it work? Will we get an agreement that limits global warming to well below 2°C (ideally 1.5°C), the point at which scientists say dangerous and irreversible climate change sets in? Behind the scenes, the going is slow and sticking points many. At the end of the first week, there was a degree of frustration and disappointment at how little ground had been covered. "Congratulations on the effort but progress is too slow," the COP president told negotiators.
The main blockages are these: should a distinction be made in the agreement between developed and developing countries? To what extent should richer countries pay to help poor countries to mitigate and adapt? Should richer countries be liable for "loss and damage" in places like the Pacific, which are already bearing the brunt of extreme weather events? And should countries' emission reduction commitments be legally binding?