Pattern-maker

By MARK STORY

Name: Beverley Marks

Position: Senior pattern-maker

Employer: Zambesi, Auckland

Age: 64

Qualifications: Four-year diploma, New Zealand College of Fashion Design; a one-year course in textiles, and various courses over the last 50 years.

Job description?


A clothing pattern-maker is the technical expert behind the designer's artistic flair. I make the patterns for high-fashion garments.

I do this by drawing outlines of clothing pieces onto tracing paper and cutting out the pieces. These pieces are used to make the first fabric prototype or calico.

In conjunction with the head designer, the finished garment evolves after style lines, fullness or gatherings, and other refinements are added during subsequent rounds of work-in-progress modelling.

I also oversee our other pattern-makers and add to their ongoing knowledge.

Why did you choose this line of work?


My mother was also a sewer and I think her interest for this business must have rubbed off. It was a passion for clothes, cultivated during what used to be a home economics class at school, that spurred me to become a machinist at age 16.

What skills do you need to become a pattern maker?


You must complete three years of secondary school, and as there can be a fair amount of measuring required, good numeric skills are useful.

Our pattern-makers must have completed a three-year diploma in pattern-making. Good eye-to-hand co-ordination, a solid grounding in garment construction and the machining process are critical, as is knowing what fabrics complement different designs.

What's the best part of the job?


Over the last 15 years with Zambesi, I've made around 3,000 patterns. But seeing the models on the catwalk wearing the finished garments - and knowing that you've played a big part in making it happen - is always the most satisfying experience.

What's the most challenging or difficult part of the job?


After 50 years in this business, 20 of them as a pattern-maker, the challenges are few. But for the less experienced pattern-makers, one of the key challenges can be getting in sync with a designer's expectations.

Knowing what the designer is looking for is essential.

What's the pay like?


Pay rates for pattern-makers vary significantly depending on experience and size of company. More experienced pattern-makers can earn around $35 an hour. Staff rates are usually available.

Have you done any interesting one-off projects?


Occasionally I do the one-off patterns for garments worn by TV personalities, and last year made the pattern for a beaded wedding dress that was featured in Fashion Quarterly magazine.

What career opportunities does this business offer?


While pattern-makers play a critical role in garment design, they have no set career path. Self-employment as a fashion designer is a natural step for many.

What's a typical week for you?


Strictly a 40-hour week - odd hours are a rarity.

What are the essential qualities to success in this job?


Formal qualifications are a minimum entry point. A passion for fashion and clothes, a keen interest in fabrics, enjoyment of meeting people, and above all, strong motivation. I turn 65 this year and have no plans to retire - I love this business.