KEY POINTS:
More than 100 tonnes of China-made clothing and fabric is flooding into New Zealand every day - but very few of those selling it here can guarantee it is safe.
A Weekend Herald investigation reveals that whether it's high street or high fashion shopping, New Zealanders are almost certain to be wearing clothes made in China.
The Ministry of Consumer Affairs will next week begin testing clothing for formaldehyde after scientists from TV3's consumer watchdog programme Target found dangerous levels of up to 900 times the amount considered safe by the World Health Organisation.
Formaldehyde is put in the clothes in China to prevent creasing and mildew as they travel to New Zealand.
Green MP Sue Kedgley said the country had been blinded by dollars at the expense of safety.
"One of the things we are learning is the high price of the cheaper product," she said.
"They may be cheap, but how much of a danger are they? Not to mention the exploitative working conditions in countries like China."
The amount of fabric and clothing pouring into New Zealand from China has more than tripled in a decade.
In 1996, less than 12,000 tonnes came through the border.
Last year almost 40,000 tonnes came in worth more than $800 million.
In the same period the number of New Zealand clothing companies has fallen by almost 200, from 1144 to 948.
Even the majority of iconic Kiwi firms do most of their manufacturing in China, or get fabrics from there.
Pumpkin Patch executive chairman Greg Muir said its manufacturing had been done in China for more than 10 years.
In the past few days the company has sent 20 garments selected at random for testing for formaldehyde. Mr Muir said the samples came back at less than 2 parts per million (ppm).
The limit for babywear is less than 20ppm, for children's clothes where fabric is against the skin less than 70ppm, and all other clothing less than 300ppm. (These are standards used in Japan and the European Union).
All the fabric for Icebreaker clothing comes from New Zealand, but founder Jeremy Moon switched manufacturing to China in 2004 to increase capacity and access better technology.
But he said there were two environmental standards the clothes met and the company maintained control of the manufacturing process.
"It's visible to us and transparent so I'm completely confident on the formaldehyde issue," he said.
The high end of the fashion market also bases much of its manufacturing in China, including Trelise Cooper and Karen Walker.
World clothes are all made in New Zealand but the fabric is imported from around the globe.
Dean Cook, head of marketing for Farmers, said all garments had to state where they were made so buyers could make informed choices.
In Farmers case, he said, clothing was sourced and made in countries all over the world, including China, Pakistan, India and New Zealand.
The company did not always know the fabric source, but the country of origin, where most of the manufacture took place, would always be on the label, Mr Cook said.
The Ministry of Consumer Affairs is advising people to wash and air new clothes before use. Action on formaldehyde levels will be decided once its investigation is complete.
Cost comes before country, says mother of four
Jontelle Beech-Dempsey has bought 17 items of clothing in the past fortnight - and not one of them is Kiwi-made.
The 23-year-old mother of four is a self-confessed bargain-hunter and clothes shopping addict.
And while she is happy to buy New Zealand products - and would like to buy more - she is constrained by the cost.
"I would rather buy lots rather than just a couple of items. As long as it looks good and is a decent price, I'll go for it.
Ms Beech-Dempsey does her shopping at op-shops, markets, high street stores and "every now and then a top designer".
She says she tends to be a bit more discerning with her children - she wouldn't buy them clothes made in China after the scares about quality - and is a "big fan of New Zealand-made".
"But when it comes down to it, if I can get an item cheaper, I will do it."
Where it's from
* Farmers: Fabric from various overseas sources. Made in Australia, China, Vietnam, New Zealand, India, Pakistan and others.
* Pumpkin Patch: Fabrics from all over the world. Made in China.
* Icebreaker: Fabric from New Zealand. Made in China.
* Canterbury: Fabric from overseas. Made in China.
* Orca: Fabric from Japan, China and Taiwan. Made in China.
* Skellerup: Gumboots made in China, leather boots made in China and Indonesia, socks mainly made in New Zealand (Ashburton) from 70 per cent merino wool.
* Swanndri: Fabrics vary but woollen clothes from New Zealand wool. Made in China.
