The future of New Zealand fashion was on show on day one of NZ Fashion Week, despite concerns over the future of the event itself.
Two fashion week debutantes opened the week's events, while strong shows from Fashion Week stalwarts - designers once considered emerging five or so years ago - closed a busy day of shows.
Auckland designer Ingrid Starnes provided a confident opening to the week, with her collection dubbed Arcadia; a womanly showing featuring vintage-inspired floral prints, 1940s dresses and wool suiting. New label Coop, designed by two girls who worked in the Trelise Cooper workroom, was another morning debut; perhaps less well assured with its street wear influence of leather, black and sheer detailing.
Blak showed a collection inspired by the dark side of fairytales, with a strict palette of black, white and deep red and a focus on lace; while Andrea Moore embraced a jewel-toned palette with her wearable collection. Hailwood pulled back his approach for winter with a sombre collection; and Starfish continued their strong eco-take on style with a lunar-inspired range.
Annah Stretton presented a collection dubbed Living Dolls, inspired by the youthquake of the 60s - although her take was perhaps too youthful, with baby doll silhouettes, Peter Pan collars and bows galore. Young designer Juliette Hogan provided a grown-up contrast with a collection that showed a progression, with a more boyish feel from previous collections, featuring tweed, leather and strong tailoring. Salasai's show at St Matthew-in-the City, styled by Canvas fashion editor Dan Ahwa, featured lots of tartan - including one especially developed for the brand - reflecting the collection's Anglo-Saxon inspiration; while Wellington-based label Twenty-seven Names bypassed the traditional runway show with an evening exhibition of images showcasing their latest collection on model Ngahuia Williams.
