Strong wool is heavier than Merino, luxurious in its weight and, because of this heaviness and warmth, often used to make knit products like blankets – although it has myriad applications, with more being researched and discovered all the time.
“One thing that has become really apparent to me as I’ve been talking to different people in the wool sector is that it’s tricky for people to hang on now,” Portas said.
“Our farmers and their advisers are scrutinising their budgets, and there’s a line that sits in the red, and it’s strong wool.
“It’s difficult for people who are emotionally attached to it, who remember it so well as a kid, being in the sheds, and remember when the going was good.
“But that’s not enough to keep it as part of your business and pay the shearing bill.
“It should be a big concern for everyone that it’s not tipping fast enough.”
Palliser Ridge
Palliser Ridge is a sheep and beef station in South Wairarapa.
South Wairarapa’s Palliser Ridge is walking to the beat of its own steadfast drum, setting new standards in conscientious farming.
For more than three decades, regeneration and creating areas of biodiversity that nourish the land, native wildlife and plant species have been central to activity.
The farm is GAP-rated, a certification guaranteeing the care and welfare of animals on approved farms.
More recently it achieved Land to Market certification, an accreditation developed by the global Savory Institute that recognises farms and businesses making significant developments in and contributions to regenerating the world’s grasslands.
It was also one of New Zealand’s first Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified farms.
In 2019 the farming team was the supreme winner of the Ballance Farm Environment Awards for the Greater Wellington Region, which Portas said was “one of our proudest moments”.
“It was validating; the judges came in and looked at our entire business, and measured success against all the things you want to be successful in – and you wouldn’t want to let any of those things slip.
“That really resonated for us.
“We spend a lot of time out in our own community and out in the industry, and we care a lot about our people and our animals, as well as about being a profitable business.
“So it was great to have judges who got all of it, not just one component.”
“Nuffield has been on our radar for a long time,” Lisa said.
“We’d always thought it would be neat for one of us to do, and now felt like a good time.
“I was going to be offshore anyway this year with our wool exports so it made sense.”
It’s the wool that’s putting Palliser Ridge on a pedestal.
When many farmers are struggling to fight a losing battle in the industry, Palliser Ridge is creating financially viable ways and channels to use wool that appeal to consumers.
“The business has to stand on its own two feet, and that’s been a non-negotiable from the get-go,” she said.
Waiheke Island company Lof produces pendant light shades made from Palliser Ridge's strong wool.
Locally, a collaboration with Waiheke Island company Lof is producing elegant pendant light shades, demystifying how New Zealand’s strong wool can be put to use in sustainable interior design.
Wool’s wealth of benefits made it an easy choice for Lof founder and designer Sophie Poelman.
“We see wool as an extraordinary material - not just for its warmth and beauty, but for its natural performance benefits,” she said.
“Palliser Ridge wool is a perfect fit for our lighting, reflecting the values we care about: sustainability, responsible farming, and a strong local supply chain.
“Working with Lisa and the team allows us to trace our wool back to the farm, ensuring every design we create is deeply connected to Aotearoa New Zealand, with a clear provenance and a fully transparent journey.”
Luxury blankets made from Palliser Ridge's strong wool.
Closer to home, Palliser Ridge hosts a monthly knitting group in the woolshed, open to everyone, using the Palliser Ridge lamb’s wool yarn.
So can wool regain its superhero status and become the product of choice again for manufacturers and consumers globally?
“One of the big things I’m really keen to do through my research is to understand the question of what people will pay for,” Portas said of her opportunity as a Nuffield Scholar.
“It’s been a real journey for me understanding what our wool is, how different it can be in different seasons, and then what to do with each of those.
“People love wool, but their wallets don’t get bigger because they love it - it’s a hard time out there for people.
“But I think there’s a genuine connection for a lot of people to wool – someone had an uncle on a farm or a granddad on a farm – there’s a lot of that ‘when I was young …’ and there’s a massive group of people who do get it and do understand it and love it.
Lisa and Kurt Portas were the 2019 Ballance Farm Environment Awards Regional Supreme Winners for the Greater Wellington Region.
The Ballance Farm Environment Awards promote sustainable farming and growing across the country, and are facilitated by the New Zealand Farm Environment Trust.