New Zealand olive oils not so virginal

Olive growers who have set up their own certification mark for the highest quality New Zealand extra-virgin olive oil say most oils sold in supermarkets would not qualify.

Olives New Zealand president Edwin Pitts said the oils people had become used to in supermarkets were not fresh and would have difficulty passing a test for extra-virgin status.

"Most oils in the supermarket wouldn't be certified because they wouldn't have a fresh aroma for a start," he said.

"They may have been certified when they were first tested, but probably not now, and we think the customer deserves better."

Mr Pitts said some of the first certified oils should reach the shelves in a few weeks. A red sticker on the bottle meant consumers could be certain the oil was fresh and of the best quality.

In 2001 a health survey, in which the Environmental Science and Research food laboratory tested edible oils, found six samples of stale olive oil which did not meet requirements for the acid and peroxide levels which indicate freshness.

The Auckland District Health Board also reported that 5 per cent of the oils, including an olive oil, "were not considered to be authentic against standard literature values, and misleading against their stated name".

Previously the Olive Association has dismissed as unsubstantiated "mischief-making" reports that some New Zealand oils have been padded out with cheap imports by producers wanting to cash in on high prices.

But concerns that such "bulking up" without clearly labelling the blend could compromise the integrity of the local industry led to calls for a quality assurance programme.

Under such a programme, press operators record how much fruit comes from a particular orchard and how much oil is produced - a paper trail that can be audited.

Mr Pitts said the criteria for the new certification were not much higher than those of the International Olive Oil Council, and could easily be obtained by most New Zealand oils provided care was taken in harvesting, processing and storage.

He said the international council's specifications required extra-virgin olive oil to have a free fatty acid level of less than 0.8 per cent, and a peroxide value level of 20 or less. Lower levels of fatty acid indicated a better quality oil that kept for longer, and the peroxide value was a measure of rancidity.

Olives New Zealand has set its standard at 0.4 per cent for fatty acids, with a peroxide value level of 15 or less.

Mr Pitts said that as well as chemical testing, the New Zealand oils would need to pass a sensory test.

- NZPA