Mixed review for Auckland restaurants

Dining out in Auckland can be a feast-or-famine experience, says an Australian food critic.

Sydney Morning Herald foodie Matthew Evans - in New Zealand as part of a judging panel of the city's top eateries - believes while Auckland has plenty to offer foodwise, it also has much to learn.

He says service is only "really good for about half of the meal", and reckons "a lot of cafe owners could do with a trip to Italy".

But the acid-tongued, often hard-to-please critic served up a heapin' helping of praise for central-city restaurant The French Cafe, which has been named Supreme Winner in the Metro Corbans Restaurant of the Year Awards 2006.

It is the third year running that the establishment has won the award, and Evans said he would like to see the restaurant moved to Sydney.

Other Auckland restaurants to win major awards included The Engine Room, Dine by Peter Gordon, Delicious, Empress Garden and Cibo. Judges made 120 restaurant visits during the six-week judging period.

Each recommended restaurant was visited twice by a different judge, who examined every detail of its operation, considering not only food, but also aspects such as wine, service and ambience. Award winners were checked three times.

But where Evans was scathing, other judges hoped any highlighted shortcomings would inspire restaurateurs to lift their game, as good restaurants made Auckland a better place to live.


Metro awards

Supreme Winner: The French Cafe
Fine Dining: The French Cafe
Smart Casual: Cibo
Italian: Delicious
Local: The Engine Room
Chinese: Empress Garden
New Restaurant: The Engine Room/Dine by Peter Gordon
Dessert: The Engine Room
Wine List: O'Connell Street Bistro
Service: Creghan Molloy Wright, The French Cafe