Rescuers have called off the search for an Australian climber presumed dead after falling into a crevasse on Mt Cook.
A helicopter had been searching since first light, but there had been no sign of him.
Dr Mark Vinar, 43, is presumed dead after either falling into acrevasse or being buried under snow and ice, Constable Les Andrews said.
The area could only be searched by air due to the avalanche risk.
The danger was considerable and there had been 30cm of fresh snow, Mr Andrews said.
Dr Vinar had been climbing with his brother Miles Vinar, 42, who was found uninjured this morning after a guide saw a light on Zubriggens Ridge at 4.30am.
Mr Vinar was picked up by a helicopter which found him coming down the mountain about 6.30am, Mr Andrews said.
The two men from Perth had been reported overdue by guides at Plateau Hut yesterday.
The climbers had been flown into the area last Saturday.
They set out to climb the mountain at 1am on Wednesday and holed up that night high up on the ridge of the Zurbriggens route.
The brothers decided on Thursday they would go back to Plateau Hut because of the poor weather conditions, Mr Vinar told police.
Soon after setting off, his brother fell and disappeared from view.
Mr Vinar continued to descend, but conditions were so bad he spent two days and nights dug into the snow to wait for rescue. The tent and cooker had fallen with his brother.
Dr Vinar is the ninth person to die on Zurbriggens Ridge, and the 70th on Mt Cook since 1907.
Thirty four Australian climbers have died in the National Park, eighteen on Mt Cook.
It is the second death on the mountain in seven days.
Japanese climbing guide Kiyoshi Ikenouchi died, while his friend and climbing companion Hideaki Nara was rescued after being stranded on the mountain for a week.
