Many children grow up dreaming of living in a world of chocolate. Thomas Netana Wright (Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Whātua, Whakatōhea) has made it his reality.
Wright is the owner and founder of Ao Cacao, a luxury chocolate brand with te ao Māori values at heart.
This weekend, Wright is in Paris for Salon du Chocolat, a prestigious chocolate exhibition showcasing chocolate makers from around the world, and it’s an exciting time for him on many levels.
“It’s the first time a New Zealand producer’s ever gone, it’s the first time an Indigenous chocolate maker’s ever gone, and it’s the first time any Māori’s ever gone. It’s huge,” he said.
It makes sense Wright would be so inclined to pursue a path of confectionery. After all, chocolate is in his blood.
His father is a baker, his mother is a chocolate fanatic, and Wright is a descendant of the historic Wright’s dairy, founded in Chelsea, London, in 1796. If it isn’t obvious by now, there was much to be inspired by.
“My mum is a big chocolate fan. We always had chocolate around the house, my dad was always baking. But also growing up in the UK, we have a big culture of chocolate-makers.”
Ao Cacao chocolate bars were on display at the convention. Photo / Supplied / Thomas Netana Wright
“I was on Google searching ‘how do I become a chocolatier’ and it, basically, said you had to be a pastry chef or work in that side of the kitchen to specialise in chocolate, so I followed that blueprint.”
For the past decade, Wright honed his craft, working as a pastry chef and chocolatier across fine dining institutions before launching Ao Cacao in 2021. And in two short years, made a big name for himself in the world of artisanal chocolate.
The power of Ao Cacao lies in its kaupapa of championing indigenous creativity, Wright said.
“Ninety-nine per cent of our ingredients are made in the Pacific, or made as local as possible from indigenous suppliers and producers. Our vanilla is from Tahiti, cacao is from Samoa, cocoa butter is from Papua New Guinea, sugar is from Fiji and all the other ingredients tend to come from Aotearoa.
“At the moment it can’t be 100 per cent because there are certain ingredients I want to use, and not everyone who farms is indigenous, but getting as close to 100 per cent indigenous as possible is my main kaupapa.”
Wright said restoring the mana of chocolate was important to him, and that could only be done through ethical, community-driven sourcing.
“My dream is for the chocolate industry to be more transparent.”
Wright said the chocolate industry needed to challenge the current narrative, and that meant more acknowledgement of how products were sourced.
“It’s important to tell the story of the person behind the ingredients. How they grew it, how they looked after it.
“It’s very common as indigenous people worldwide to acknowledge communities, even if it’s from a different culture, you have to honour who makes it, who supplies it, who sources it.
“It’s important for the consumer to know where it’s coming from, too, now more than ever.”
At Salon du Chocolat, Wright’s aim will be to showcase just how rich Aotearoa’s chocolate-making potential is.
“Why can’t someone from New Zealand go over and showcase what we’re doing on the other side of the world? It’s a chance to get recognised and meet more people within such a small industry.
“I want to show people that it’s possible to do 100 per cent ethical chocolate and put a spotlight on New Zealand’s chocolate industry.”
Salon du Chocolat is a five-day event dedicated to chocolate, that runs in Paris until Thursday.
