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New Zealand is no stranger to winning international accolades for its wines, but one company's recent success at the United States' largest wine contest came as something of a surprise. Picking up a slew of top awards at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, including Winemaker of the Year, was Henderson's Mazuran's winery. But the winning wines weren't the sauvignon blancs that tend to get our gongs. These were Kiwi ports.
When sauvignon blanc was still a twinkle in a Frenchman's eye in New Zealand, it was ports, sherries and the like that filled the flagons of most of our wine drinkers. These increasingly fell out of favour with the rise of table wines in recent decades, and were virtually taxed into oblivion with the near doubling of excise rates on fortifieds four years ago.
Fortified sales halved, causing most Kiwi companies that were making the products to throw in the towel. But thankfully not Mazuran's, who has specialised in fine fortifieds for over 60 years and has one of the oldest collections of these wines in Australasia. In fact, it's still possible to purchase a bottle of their first vintage from 1942.
In the ghost town that is now the New Zealand fortified category, a clutch of charmless cheapo ruby and cream apparitions haunt the lower shelves.
However, reanimating the sector at a more serious level of late has been the endeavours of the likes of Trinity Hill.
Last year the Hawkes Bay estate released the first vintage of its Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)-style Touriga Nacional Port. Unlike any New Zealand port that had gone before it, this was made with two of the main grape varieties found in traditional Portuguese port.
Sadly now sold out, the second release will likely be next year, with a tawny port promised when stocks of the wine age sufficiently.
Fortifieds encompass some of the great wine styles of the world: the salty sherries of Spain's Jerez; the luscious ports of Portugal's Douro Valley; and the rich liqueur muscats and tokays of Australia's Rutherglen. However, they've been losing ground across the world due to their old-fashioned image and confusion over when and with what they should be drunk.
It's something that's starting to be addressed by some of the big traditional port houses. A number have modernised their packaging and are promoting lighter early drinking styles, such as their mellow tawnies and fruity LBVs. These don't need cellaring for years like vintage port before they're ready to be enjoyed.
In Jerez, the home of true sherry, much is being made of their wine's compatibility with food. While most sherry-copies are sweet, much real sherry is left in its naturally dry state and works surprisingly well with a variety of fare. Its lightest style, fino, is fabulous with seafood and miso-based dishes; the nutty amontillado comes into its own with soups like consomme, while rich dry oloroso is a great match with robust meat dishes, proving that it's not just an aperitif.
There are certainly rich pickings to be had at the fine end of fortifieds. It's just a pity that trends and taxes have conspired against them in this country and that Mazuran's victory comes at a time when they've become something of a rare breed.
Tawny Treats
Tawny ports and similarly hued amontillado sherries are some of the most versatile fortified styles. Drink them now as great winter warmers or chilled in the summer months.
Truly nuts
Lustau Los Arcos Dry Amontillado Sherry, Spain $22
With the wonderfully tangy and nutty palate that only a sherry can possess, this dry amontillado from one of Jerez's best bodegas has developed some of the deep rich savoury notes and spice that can be expected from the years it has spent maturing in the barrels of the solera.
* From Caro's, The Village Winery.
Ripe old ager
Mazuran's Old Tawny Port $31
This treacley tawny contains oak matured wines that date back to 1975, which are no doubt responsible for the wine's rich smoothness. Reminiscent of fruitcake, it's all raisins, spice, nuts and candied peel.
* From La Barrique, Cellar Select stores: www.cellarselect.co.nz
Good looker
Warre's Otima 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Portugal $65-$70
In an attempt to shake off port's old-fashioned image, Warre's gave its 10 Year Old Tawny a makeover a few years back and it now looks as smart as it tastes. Drier than the Mazuran's version and from the home of true port, it's full of almonds, hazelnuts and dried fruits laced with caramel and spices that linger on its warming finish.
* From Super Liquor Highland Park, Greenhills Waiheke Island.
