Inglis arrives home

Double-amputee climber Mark Inglis in Auckland today. Sandra Mu / Getty Images

Double amputee climber and Everest conqueror flew back to New Zealand today into a storm of controversy over dying British climber David Sharp.

Inglis was greeted by supporters at Auckland Airport before flying on to Christchurch.

He showed waiting media his frost-bitten fingers and artifical legs.

Inglis became the first double amputee last week to scale Mt Everest, the world's highest mountain. But on the way up he was one of 40 climbers to pass the Sharp about 300 metres from the summit.

Inglis said his team tried to help Sharp but he was so near death there was nothing they could do for him.

He could not speak, his limbs were almost frozen solid and the only sign of life was slight movement in hs eyes.

The decision from the Inglis team not to abandon their climb drew criticism from Sir Edmund Hillary, who with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first men to reach the summit of Mt Everest in May, 1953.

He said he was "gutted" at Sir Edmund's criticism but said he welcomed the debate.

Inglis was due at Christchurch Hospital today and was expected to lose the end of the ring finger on his right hand. He returned from the mountain with the tips of several fingers black with frostbite.

- NZPA, HERALD ONLINE STAFF