KEY POINTS:
Name: Sarah Mules.
Age: 31.
Role: Merchandise manager for Woodhouse Apparel.
Working hours: 8am-5.30pm. Extended hours when travelling or busy.
Average salary: $50,000-$70,000. Very experienced managers can earn much more.
Qualifications and institution: Bachelor of Art and Design in Fashion and Costume from Auckland University of Technology.
NZ Fashion Tech Certificate in Pattern Design and National Certificate in Clothing Manufacture.
Describe what you do.
Woodhouse Apparel supplies product to New Zealand commercial fashion retailers. Merchandise management is like piecing together bits of a puzzle, because a lot happens in the background to make an order a reality.
Each season I travel overseas to source the latest fashions and put together relevant ranges to show my buyers. After the buyer has selected samples of interest, we accurately cost them in China, paying careful detail to fabrication, trims and fit to get the most competitive price. Accurate costing is very important.
By law we also must change the garment 20 per cent for copyright purposes. By the time fabric is selected, trims changed and fit adjusted, the garments often look entirely different from the original sample.
Once the price is confirmed by all parties, the order is placed.
Then what happens?
I give the order to the production controller who manages it by chasing up lab dips (colours), bulk trims and fabrics and fit samples for approval.
The production controller works alongside me to make sure production runs smoothly and the customer is kept up to date but it is my role to sort things out if anything goes wrong.
So she keeps the current production under control, while I move into buying and costing for the next season.
Your history?
I travelled for about five years before returning to New Zealand and starting a fine arts degree. After a year, I realised my interest was in textiles and fashion so I changed to the AUT fashion design degree. However, because I cross-credited into the second year I missed some of the technical foundation blocks and so, after I graduated, I did a NZ Fashion Tech course to pick those skills up.
Then I got a job as a trainee merchandise manager at Woodhouse Apparel. Initially I managed a small sleepwear account and assisted with another account. During my two years here, I've moved to managing three large accounts.
What sort of training or experience do you need for this job?
I feel it is beneficial to have a qualification because it gives you technical and commercial knowledge of the fashion industry. However if you're willing to start at an entry position and work really hard, you can still get there. Because I was employed as a trainee, I was coached and mentored into the role. Some other fashion houses employ people as manager assistants, which is another way to learn the role.
I believe the life skills I gained travelling were significant in getting me this job because I had proven I could handle myself in different situations and cultures.
What skills or qualities do you need?
All my production is done offshore so I spend a large part of my day emailing and corresponding with China, which makes communication skills hugely important. You have to be able to problem solve and think laterally. You need a drive to succeed and be willing to work hard. You need to love fashion.
Did you realise the role of merchandise manager existed?
No, initially I only knew about designers and retailers. But study opened my eyes to the other careers within the industry.
Best part of the job?
I really enjoy the travel. I go four times a year for one or two weeks to cities such as London, LA and San Francisco. Other managers go to Asia or France, depending on their account requirements.
I also really enjoy the sales side because I love building relationships and communicating with people.
Most challenging part?
The paperwork is a hard slog. You have to keep a check on all the detail but, if you do that well, the rest of the job becomes easier.
Biggest surprise in the role?
Just how much is involved in putting together a range from the start to final delivery and all the variables around that.
Do you have any advice for others wanting to do this?
Study, if you have the time and resources, because it gives you confidence and understanding of the industry and reassures the employer of your interest and knowledge.
And, even if you want to do your own label, I feel it is important to work on the commercial side first so you learn about seasons, costings, ordering and production - and everything in between.
Where would you like to be in five years?
I want to be here for at least another three years because there is still a lot to achieve.
My long-term goal is to create my own label but I'm in no rush because I love what I'm doing here so much.
