Solomon Islands are in crisis, and in spite of the efforts of both New Zealand and Australia, the prognosis is not good, writes WYATT CREECH*.
For most Kiwis, Solomon Islands are a pretty distant affair - a widely spread group of islands nestled just below the equator.
Apparently not much happens there and we heard little of them, at least until recently when guerrilla-type roaming armed bands of militants with names like the Isatabu Freedom Movement and the Malaitan Eagle Force burst into the news.
Any pictures we saw of the Solomons painted the usual tropical island image of paradise - endless beaches, sun, coconut trees and so on. But then, apparently quite suddenly, trouble broke out.
It trickled along for a year or so, then there was a coup. And now our Foreign Minister, Phil Goff, and his Australian counterpart, Alexander Downer, are up there holding crisis talks.
What went wrong in "paradise"?
First, some background. Solomon Islands stretch from Bougainville to Vanuatu. The islands are all lush, verdant and beautiful, although very hot. While modern times have imposed a single political entity on this disparate group of islands, historically there never was that connection.
Traditionally, even within islands, there were different language groups and identities. There are hundreds of completely different languages spoken within the Solomons. The common language is pidgin English or wontok (pidgin for one talk - the same language).
The capital and seat of government, Honiara, is on Guadalcanal. It's far from large by our standards - 30,000 to 40,000 people - but it is the only city of substance in the islands.
Politics has always been dogged by the wontok system. If you are in politics, you are expected to help your village, your tribe, your wontok.
Even in the best of times, the pickings have been slim on the Solomons. For a long time it has been dependent on foreign aid. Australia and New Zealand have been large contributors. In addition, Taiwan provides many dollars; in return, the Solomons remains one of the few countries that recognise Taiwan.
While it consists of countless islands, two major islands dominate these ethnic tensions - Malaita and Guadalcanal. By reputation Guadal people are easygoing and relaxed. Over the years many of the apparently more ambitious Malaitans have shifted to Guadalcanal to work in Government agencies and to start up businesses.
Gradually, this built up a level of resentment among the Guadals. Rightly or wrongly, they felt like their island was being taken over. Eventually conflict between these groups erupted.
Militant Guadals formed the Isatabu Freedom Movement (Isatabu is the indigenous name for Guadalcanal). They robbed the police armoury of weapons, including assault rifles, set up roadblocks and started forcing Malaitans from their homes on their island under threat of death.
The Malaitans quickly responded by forming the Malaitan Eagle Force (the Eagle bit of the name being taken from their popular soccer team). They, too, armed themselves with stolen weapons.
For safety, Malaitans quickly moved from the interior of Guadalcanal Island to Honiara, which became a Malaitan enclave. Battles took place at the margins between the groups and inevitably deaths ensued - about 200 all told.
Not only was the Government powerless to intervene, but both it and the police took sides, Malaitans going one way and Guadals the other. Solomon Islanders call this period "the tensions".
As fighting spread, foreign investors and tourists deserted the country and the economy collapsed. No one can blame them for going; the guests at Tavanipupu resort were supposedly enjoying the evening meal when they found themselves surrounded by threatening armed men. They were locked in the kitchen for hours while hearing talk about what might be done to them from just outside the door.
Although this incident ended peacefully, it was not the type of activity that tourists associate with tranquil, idyllic Pacific paradise holidays.
Likewise with business. Many companies found themselves subjected to threats and intimidation. In any event, earning a reasonable return on investment was impossible.
The Government fared no better. Sweetheart deals saw funds intended for legitimate Government activity switched to "compensation" - supposedly payments for losses suffered in the tensions, but often nothing more than old-fashioned pocket-lining.
Health and education services have suffered and are now limited. Basic road repairs have not been done for some time and power generation is spasmodic, as is refuse collection and the like.
Soon, however, the overwhelming mass of the people sought peace. With the help of Australia and New Zealand, among others, an agreement was brokered at Townsville to disarm the population. Militants agreed to return their weapons and move to new elections.
The Townsville agreement certainly resulted in a drop in ethnic tension but, unfortunately, new tensions have developed within formerly coherent groups such as the Isatabu Freedom Movement. Much of this is no more than straight criminal activity.
To switch the focus of the former militants to peaceful pursuits, the Government decided to appoint them as special constables. It has not worked.
These special constables are at the root of much of today's intimidation and lawless activity. While I was there last month on election observation duty, a woman was killed by crossfire in one of the ongoing intra-group disputes.
The most pressing need in the Solomons now - and it is urgent - is law and order. Numerous illegal weapons still possessed by militant groups must also be confiscated.
The militants are not fighting now, but as long as weapons are available there is the potential for trouble. Any other aid will be wasted if this is not done.
Question-marks hang over the Government that emerged after last month's election. Some key ministers have dubious records, including apparently taking large amounts of Government money (some no doubt sourced from foreign aid) for their own use.
I just hope that the Solomons, a beautiful country with heaps of potential, can solve its problems.
A proper police force, sound courts and an honest political system are desperately needed.
* Wyatt Creech is a National MP.
Feature: Solomon Islands
Map
Main players in the Solomons crisis
Solomon Islands facts and figures
<i>Dialogue:</i> Things get difficult when tensions flare in paradise
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