In the Solomon Islands' capital of Honiara, there's a wry joke about its main hospital. The colloquial pidgin expression "numba wan" translates as "the best", while Central Hospital's local name is Number Nine.
Rust and water stains creep across the network of covered walkways and lattice brickwork, while disused equipment stands incongruously outside wards in the tropical sun. In the gynaecology ward, a handwritten sign marks the ultrasound scanning room, supported by a New Zealand-registered charity, the Pacific Society for Reproductive Health (PSRH).
A relic of the US-led Pacific campaign of the 1940s, Number Nine is the largest hospital in the country. Today, signs of a more benign occupation are everywhere; dozens of aid agencies cluster on Honiara's streets, from Oxfam to UNIFEM, all working for one purpose - to help the country move forward as an independent nation.
In global terms, the archipelago is one of our closest neighbours, but its health system falls far below international standards, as do many other aspects of its development.
In 1999, tensions between the Polynesian and Melanesian populations erupted into internal conflict, which settled down when the Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI) arrived. This included police and troops from Australia, New Zealand and other Pacific countries, which nine years on are still in place, acting as the Solomon's primary security force and supporting many other parts of its infrastructure, including health services.