Hangi'n the USA

Former Masterton man Graeme Beresford, centre, beside his wife Michele Roger, at a hangi earlier this year that is part of a 14-year tradition for their friends and guests in Commerce, Michigan, USA.

ONE Kiwi guy says to another: Bro, let's do a hangi.
A common enough invitation, especially if you're a "bro" with over an acre (0.4ha) of land in the suburbs.
But the difference is this hangi is in the United States, in a town called Commerce, about an hour north of Detroit.
Former Masterton man Graeme Beresford, who has been living in the US for 30 years running a landscaping company, started doing hangi 14 years ago for friends in the backyard of his property in Oakland County, Michigan.
The concept of his "kiwi" hangi has since developed into an annual Labour Weekend event and something of a minor pilgrimage for Kiwis in the US and Canada, owing to Commerce's proximity to the border.
As many as 200 attend the day, with Maori performances and races thrown in. There's even an official T-shirt.
Speaking to the Times-Age by phone from Commerce, Graeme said he had done a few hangi in New Zealand and, in fact, his going-away party was a hangi.
But it was a Kiwi friend in Michigan, Paul Reinheart, who was the founding member and teacher for Graeme, showing him how to create a hangi pit and cook in it.
"I met him on a canoe trip, and I said, 'let's do a hangi'."
"We invited 20 people and we got 95."
For two years, Graeme and Paul, joined by "Kiwi Bruce" Wahongi from Auckland and "Kiwi Jon" Carr from Te Kuiti, dug the pit and put the hangi down.
A lean-to came next, after a rainy and boggy hangi day.
Today, a small, whare-styled shelter now proudly sits over a permanent concrete hangi pit.
Graeme says it looks the part.
"It's Maori black and red - it looks pretty neat."
The team put down lamb, pork, chicken and beef, plus vegetables and sweet potato.
For the past three years, the hangi has been held on Labour Day weekend, which is the first weekend in August for the US.
"We put it in on a Sunday morning," says Graeme. "We light the fire at 6am, food goes in at 11am."
He sees new faces and old faces every year.
"This year, we had a couple of Maori guys from Toronto.
"A Kiwi woman came from New York and sang the national anthem.
"We had one Maori guy drive down from New Brunswick, he drove 14 hours with his wife and 6-year-old child.
"He just loved it."
Graeme says people can't believe food tastes so good "cooked in the dirt".
While the food cooks, entertainment is provided, including traditional New Zealand games, such as sack races, and now gumboot throwing, inspired by Taihape, he says.
Last year, a performance group from the touring Kahurangi Maori Dance Company put on a show.
It's a lot of work, and even the alcohol is provided.
"We sell T-shirts and armbands, which are different every year," he says.
"It's just so we can keep track of who's paid.
"We charge each person. It doesn't pay for it, but it helps."
Graeme sees the hangi as his contribution to "making this world a better place" and
"to show kiwiana, the New Zealand way of life".
This year's hangi party was particularly special, with Graeme marrying his fiance, Michele, the day before.
"Wedding on Saturday, hangi on Sunday," he says.
In lieu of "25 salad crystal bowls", the pair asked guests to donate to one of two charities that matched their interests.
Graeme chose the Commerce Elementary Garden, a learning garden used by nearly 600 students and staff, while Michele, an author, chose the Milford Township Public Library.
Close friend Ken Millar was at the hangi this year - and was best man for Graeme at the wedding.
"Graeme and I have been friends since school," he says.
"This is the second or third hangi I've been to."
He says there are a lot of Americans at the hangi, but plenty of Kiwis proudly emphasising their culture, taonga (greenstone pendants) visible around their necks.
"It's a strange atmosphere - there's a lot of ex-pats running around with the tiki around their necks.
"There's a great emphasis on their New Zealand roots, and keeping the traditions alive, showing the love of New Zealand."
The atmosphere when the hangi is getting close is "electric", he says.
"It's a damn good feel-good day."
It is a lot of work in preparing for the day, he says.
"It's a big undertaking - to have done this for 14 years is something else."
He is also impressed with the entertainment, and the Maori performances.
"We had traditional New Zealand songs - I think there was a 10 Guitars in there somewhere."