KEY POINTS:
The Lonely Planet has scrutinised nearly every inch of New Zealand and lavished praise on its beauty.
But it warns the tourism industry that it needs to protect its green status.
The travel advice company's new guidebook, which went on sale yesterday, says there are "few countries on this lonely planet as diverse, unspoiled and utterly, utterly photogenic".
But the book notes that while tourism numbers in New Zealand have risen, so has the environmental cost, as the extra visitors strain the clean, green environment for which the country is renowned.
For the first time, all listings in the Lonely Planet include a sustainability evaluation, and the best are in a "GreenDex" - an index of all the tour, accommodation and eating choices that demonstrate an active sustainable tourism policy.
"We hope that this, and other similar initiatives, will encourage other operators to see that there's a clear financial advantage in operating an environmentally responsible business," says the guide's co-author Charles Rawlings-Way.
The book praises the country's recognition of Maori culture and the way "grass-roots small-scale Maori tourism operators give a more genuine experience for travellers".
Some of the top Maori experiences include exploring the East Cape, taking a Footprints Waipoua tour, and attending the Kawhia Kai festival.
It's not all good news, though. The five authors also point out the darker, duller and plain odd aspects of New Zealand.
They describe the Tasman Glacier as having a "predictably spectacular sweep of ice, but further down it's downright ugly".
Bluff is described as "unimpressive". The only reason for visiting the town, the authors say, is to catch the ferry to Stewart Island.
They also point out some of the country's "tacky" features.
Targets included Auckland's Sky Tower, which "looks like a giant hypodermic giving a fix to the heavens", the replica Stonehenge in the Wairarapa - "A lifesize recreation of the original. Weird? Yes. Tacky? Absolutely" - and Cromwell's "heinous giant fruit thing".
The main centres receive good marks from the authors.
Travellers are encouraged to "rock into Wellington for a big-city hit" and experience its "red-hot arts scene".
Auckland could "justifiably respond to its detractors, 'Don't hate me because I'm beautiful'." And Christchurch combines "an easy-going provincial charm with the emerging energy and verve of a metropolis".
The authors embrace small-town New Zealand.
Singled out for individual praise are "cute as a button" Naseby, "best-kept secret" Opoutere, and Takaka - "laid-back to near horizontal ... dreadlocked types rub shoulders with hardened farmers and crusty fishermen in equilibrium: the bike shop sells guitar strings; the pub serves chai".
But not all our little towns found favour.
On the outer are Gulf Harbour ("a Noddy-town development of matching houses"), Dargaville ("you should know not to expect too much") and Pauanui ("an upmarket refugee camp for over-wealthy Aucklanders").
The authors compared the national psyche to "that little guy at school when they're picking rugby teams ... Then, when he does get the nod, his sheer determination to prove himself propels him to score a completely unexpected try. When his team-mates come to congratulate him he stares at the ground and mumbles, 'It was nothing, ay'."
They advised tourists to bring insect repellent to keep the sandflies away, the ability to get excited over a rugby game and a long-sleeve shirt for summer - "the sun kicks like a mule".
They also included a dos and don'ts list. Visitors are advised to bring a small offering such as wine or chocolates if invited to a meal, turn up on time at restaurants to ensure their table is not given away, and tip about 10 per cent for good service.
The don'ts include sitting on a table or surface where food is prepared, as it is culturally offensive, especially to Maori, and belching at the table, as it is considered bad manners.
- NZPA
