Yati Samadian with iconic signature dishes from her hometown of Bandung in Indonesia that's among the "secret menu" items at her Java Room restaurant in Parnell. Photo / Alex Burton
Covid-19 changed the way people ordered food from Yati Samadian at her Java Room restaurant in Parnell.
With the border closures many of her Indonesian customers who can't travel back to their homeland and were craving for comfort food from home started asking Samadian, 63, to cook authentic flavours from her West Java province of Bandung.
Thinking familiar taste and aroma of dishes would help her people cope better during the pandemic, she complied.
The word spread and soon many in the community started ordering these Bandung dishes rather than what's on her menu.
Today, among many in Auckland's Indonesian community, Samadian's "secret menu" - which includes siomay komplit, empal gepuk and karedok - has become Auckland's worst-kept secret.
Gatherings have been held at Java Room centred around these meals and dishes that can be traced back to West Java - but few outside the local Indonesian community here know about them.
To flush out these and other hidden culinary secrets around Auckland, the Iconic Auckland Eats programme is back.
Food-loving Aucklanders are being asked to share stories behind their favourite food experiences across the region by nominating a dish to be on the 2022 Iconic Auckland Eats list.
Launched in 2020, Tātaki Auckland Unlimited's Head of Visitor Economy Annie Dundas says the list is to celebrate the unique, diverse and world-class food experiences in Auckland.
"We are so proud of the world-class hospitality offering in Tāmaki Makaurau, and we know there are plenty more incredible experiences and stories to uncover with the help of food-loving Aucklanders," Dundas said.
"If you've got an absolute favourite food experience in Auckland, one that you can only get here, we want to hear from you. Tell us your story and give us all the details - the quality, the flavours, the place, the talented chef or the friendly team – that made your experience so memorable."
Over the last two years. Aucklanders have shared nearly 200 Iconic Auckland Eats, from much-loved, timeless classics to those reflecting ethnic diversity.
"This list is becoming the ultimate culinary bucket list of Auckland," Dundas said.
The programme was launched as an initiative to support hospitality businesses here.
"The past two years have been incredibly tough for the hospitality industry and this initiative is one way we can support local food and beverage businesses that are important to Auckland's economic recovery and central to visitor experience," Dundas said.
Samadian, who has been involved with Java Room since it opened in 1995 - first as a worker and now owner - said the last two years have been particularly challenging.
"It's also been tough for many people in the community, so if my food can provide nostalgia and comfort, I'm be more than happy to do it for them," she said.
"Some have told me that getting food that helps them feel at home has helped them cope better with the stress and reducing anxiety during the pandemic."
Siomay - steamed fish dumpling with egg, tofu and vegetables cut into bite-size pieces and topped with peanut sauce, kecap manis sweet soy sauce, chilli and lime juice - is one of the most popular dishes from Bandung.
Others are empal gepuk or sweet and slightly spicy aromatic fried beef, and karedok, a raw vegetable salad that is a Sudanese signature dish traditionally comprising long beans, cabbage, bean sprouts, basil, cucumber and green eggplant covered in peanut sauce dressing.
"These are food I grew up with and what many people from the part of Indonesia that I come from eat with their families every other day in Bandung," Samadian said.
"In Indonesia they are common food, but I know that here, many including myself will definitely regard them as very special or indeed iconic."
Adriana Ferdian, co-owner of Bali Nights and Java says being named on the list in 2021 "had a huge impact" that extends beyond her small business.
"It's been an absolute honour and we are immensely proud that a bunch of first-generation Indonesian immigrants have been able to break through into the tough Auckland culinary scene," she said.
Bertrand Jang, of Sweet and Me, said having his Coconut Buns awarded an iconic dish has attracted new customers and gave a boost to the team.
"Not only did it provide assurance for new customers but also for the team, knowing that our buns were being awarded this. It has definitely placed us on a platform of best buns in Auckland so vinaka vakalevu to the team," Jang said.
Nominations open today for Aucklanders to nominate for the 2022 list, and the best nomination will be chosen to win all 100 Iconic Auckland Eats! Nominations close on October 2.
The list of 100 dishes and stories celebrates the full food experience, including the people, place, history, heritage and culture, and the criteria include being well-loved, representative of local culture and people, a "timeless classic" or perhaps a "signature dish".
Nominees also stand to win a grand prize of a voucher, valued at more than $3000, to experience all 100 award-winning dishes over 12 months.
Last year's winners AG and Aleana Fernando have managed to eat over 60 iconic dishes so far.
"The best experience was by far the insane Signature Sashimi Platter at Cocoro and the most surprising was the Hangi Pie at Blue Rose Cafe which has quickly become our favourite pie shop," Fernando said.