Fashion week - it's all about catching the eye

Don Brash and his wife Je Lan arrive at the opening of Air New Zealand Fashion Week. Picture / Greg Bowker

It was pats on the back and eyeing up all round at the opening of Fashion Week last night.

Helen Clark and Don Brash, accompanied by wife Je Lan, took time out from the bearpit of personal politics to be at the launch of the Air New Zealand-sponsored event.

Auckland City Mayor Dick Hubbard made that little extra effort with his outfit and the locals were on the lookout for any VIP invited guests.

The cavernous former America's Cup base on Halsey St has once again been transformed into Planet Fashion for a round of trade shows over several days followed by a public day on Saturday. Black drapery, slick lighting and glasses of sponsors' product somehow manage to make a few old tin sheds twinkle in seasonal transformation.

It's all about showing winter 2007 ranges for our export-minded designers. New Zealand fashion plays to its strength with winter wear, whereas Australia's event is swimsuit central.

Part hype, part business, the opening night was somehow typified by the first event of the week; an eyewear collection launch from Karen Walker. Just back from showing in New York, she has chosen not to do runway at home this year, weakening the lineup of the top designers but starting the week off with a good bash.

"With six years of fashion history behind us, it's not the detail of what's on the catwalk that lingers in my memory," FW director Pieter Stewart told the launch. "It's the quantum leaps that have been made by the industry and the way Fashion Week has instigated many of these."

Since the event began, apparel exports have risen from $220 million in 2001 to $313 million to June 2005.

In declaring the week open, the Prime Minister lauded fashion as a creative industry helping reposition the country's image and economy.

By week's end, we'll know if - even without Walker and a few other no-shows - overseas buyers will have found enough with the wow factor to keep increasing their spend.

So far, so good, especially for the Australians who buy most of our exports and find Fashion Week a quick, convenient way to size up the market, renew regular orders and sign up new talent.

These buyers aren't all interested in our "name" designers; many shift far more units of commercial ranges which get less media attention. Names like Vamp, Annah S, Obi and Catalyst that will be more familiar to Kiwi suburban shoppers rather than boutique trawlers. And some of those name designers, who already have good sales networks overseas, participate as much for a branding exercise and local profile as to sell truckloads of clothes. Trelise Cooper, Zambesi, Nom*D, Kate Sylvester and co do Fashion Week to support the local industry as much as to profit from it.

For the media and buyer guests from emerging markets such as Asia and North America, Fashion Week organisers are playing a longer game - seeding the idea of NZ fashion, looking to pick up key accounts and some good publicity. And there's always the hope a new star will be uncovered.


By the numbers

This is the sixth annual New Zealand Fashion Week - four days of trade shows and one public day on Saturday.

There will be 33 shows from 48 labels, plus the Deutz Fashion Design Ambassador and AUT Rookie shows for new talent.

In the year to June 2005, apparel exports earned the country $320 million. Australia takes 71 per cent of that, Britain accounts for 6.9 per cent, Hong Kong for 2 per cent and Japan for 1.9 pr cent.

At least 150 models will stride down the catwalk.

Fashion Week injects $33.06 million into the economy.

Between 18,000 and 20,000 drinks will be consumed.

For a new-generation show designers need to cough up $5500. It's $9000 for a group show and individual shows are $10,000 to $19,000. Makeup artists and models are extra.


This week online

See our blogs and picture galleries.

Daily coverage of Fashion Week.


This week in print

Daily coverage in Section A.

Viva: Special 36-page Fashion Week issue tomorrow and the final word next Wednesday.


Tickets

The four days of trade shows are closed to the public, but this year special evening designer selection shows are being held daily and Saturday has been named anzfw 4u, with a host of public events including bands and a designer garage sale open to ticket holders.

Ticket prices range from $25 to get into the venue, but not the shows, through several tiers of prices for show seating up to $80.

Details: nzfashionweek.com

Bookings: Ticketek