Faraway adventure on Molesworth Rd

Molesworth Station Rd winds through a high country wilderness as big as Stewart Island. Picture / Simon Baker

It's not called Isolated Flat for nothing. With the towering Kaikoura Ranges on one side and the Spenser Mountains on the other, in this part of Molesworth Station a cyclist can feel very much alone in the world.

Kendall Sales and Sally Thornton know the feeling.

"We're 11km in from the start of the Molesworth Rd, but it feels like we might as well be a million. It's pretty remote," Mr Kendall said.

The couple chose the Molesworth Station Rd's opening day to cycle through the high-country station, a 59km journey which they estimated would take most of the day.

The 180,000ha Marlborough farm is New Zealand's largest - as big as Stewart Island - and is home for many endangered species, including 77 plants, lizards, and the New Zealand falcon.

It has a rich history, but its desolate terrain made working the land difficult. By 1949 all of the farmers working the station had surrendered their leases to the Crown.

From July the farm's management will switch from Landcorp to the Department of Conservation - a move the Government says will protect the land, but one that also met strong criticism from those who say DoC will not keep up the necessary pest and weed control work.

Molesworth's public access road is only open for a few weeks each year.

In summer the fire risk has often kept it closed, and in winter snowfalls can make it impassable even for bulldozers.

When open it is a popular route - since 1987, 100,000 people and 40,000 vehicles have travelled it.

It's not an easy or quick trip.

From Hanmer Springs it takes half an hour to get to Acheron Accommodation House at the road's start, at least two hours of dusty travelling on Molesworth Rd itself, then another two hours to SH1 south of Blenheim.

Coming in from Hanmer Springs, travellers should begin through Jacks Pass rather than the terrifying 4WD-only road over Jollies Pass.

A full tank of petrol is a necessity as the next pump is 175km away. It's also worth knowing that the Automobile Association does not cover these parts. Nor will your cellphone.

Strict rules must be followed while travelling the road, and drivers must sign a weighty-looking waiver before setting off, relieving DoC, Landcorp and Land Information New Zealand staff of liabilty.

The road has a 50km speed limit and all animals - the farm has 10,000 cattle - have right of way. The numerous farm gates must be left as you find them, which is usually shut.

The landscape differs at each end because of the rainfall, but in most places is dotted with patches of purple lupins.

A string of tall power poles carrying the North Island's main power supply from Central Otago snakes through the station.

The weather is as difficult as the terrain - last summer the wind blew down three poles, causing a temporary power crisis - and in the years that Bernie Coggan has been the road's northern-end guardian, he's seen it all.

He will spend seven weeks registering vehicles on the road until he is relieved by another contractor.

The fishing rod and line attached to his caravan is for holding up his radio aerial.

"I'm on duty 24/7, if not signing people in, then checking the road. There really is no time for fishing."

Getting there

* Molesworth Station can be found on the map inland from Kaikoura, south of Blenheim and north of Hanmer Springs.

* Its gravel road is open to the public until March 14.

* Camping is permitted at either end of the road, but no open fires or dogs are allowed.