Auckland is 175 years old tomorrow. Most of its anniversaries pass without much fanfare - Aucklanders are not given to celebrating their city. A high proportion have migrated from other parts of New Zealand or, increasingly, other countries, and all migrants retain old loyalties. When Auckland plays at Eden Park, half the crowd will be supporting the visiting side and the born-and-bred Aucklanders will be less vocal. But, just quietly, they would not live anywhere else.
Auckland is a wonderful place to be, which is why the roads can be congested and house prices are astronomical. Aucklanders moan about them but do not want to move away. Too many of them will not even use their public transport, which is not as bad as it is painted. The city is a sprawling monster, a collection of suburbs looking for a centre, someone once said.
That was some time ago. Today, the centre is looking better, especially at its waterfront. The America's Cup left a glittering legacy at the Viaduct, now linked to a lively new district of dining and bars in converted wharf sheds, called the Wynyard Quarter.
Queens Wharf has been opened for public use, a legacy of the Rugby World Cup when Auckland proved it could really party. Britomart, above the undergound rail terminal, has become a fashion precinct, inner city side streets are shared by pedestrians and vehicles and it works. Queen St has been made more welcoming for people, less for cars.
One day the council will surely put Quay St's traffic underground and the whole downtown waterfront will be alive.
