Drama just beginning for the top designers

By FIONA HAWTIN fashion editor

You won't hear the New Zealanders complaining of not having a thing to wear ahead of the 76th Academy Awards.

They have proudly ordered specially made numbers, mainly from local designers Zambesi, Liz Mitchell and Trelise Cooper, to take to Los Angeles for the occasion and the round of lead-up events. But most are remaining quiet on what they will wear on the big day.

As soon as Keisha Castle-Hughes was nominated for best actress for her part in Whale Rider, she made it known she'd like a Liz Mitchell gown, having admired those shown in the couturier's shop whenever she passed by with her mother.

The 13-year-old wore Ms Mitchell's turquoise organza dress to the Screen Actors Guild Awards and an off-white silk halter with hand-painted pohutukawa flowers on the Oprah show taped this week. Trelise Cooper also heaped outfits on her for the supporting events and the actress has packed Jenny Walker's hand-quilted tiki dress that won the 2003 Style Pasifika supreme award.

Although she has whipped up a little number accessorised with Swarovski crystals for the big occasion, Ms Mitchell won't know if Castle-Hughes will wear it until the day and is aware there is competition from New York-based expatriate designer Rebecca Taylor.

It is what the world's biggest fashion houses aspire to. Couture, often with a price tag of six figures, is routinely lent gratis for the day because the design houses know a single photo of a star in one of their creations eclipses all other runway exposure.

Castle-Hughes could yet be wooed by one of them.

Although tradition decrees what the stars wear is hush-hush until the last minute, some of those from behind the scenes don't mind revealing all beforehand.

Weta Workshop's Oscar nominee, Richard Taylor, has had a Liz Mitchell black tuxedo finished with a midnight-blue collar and a paua-coloured vest with Pacific detailing run up specially.

Partner Tania Rodger will also be in Ms Mitchell's 50s bustier and skirt of hand-dyed layers of tulle in Pacific sea colours.

Zambesi has been working on outfits for eight Oscar-goers, including Fran Walsh and Niki Caro.

Although sworn to secrecy over the actual designs, designer Elisabeth Findlay can reveal the clothes have been taken from existing styles and reworked but will still have a distinctly Zambesi feel.

Peter Jackson is expected to give the Versace tuxedo he keeps for these swanky affairs another outing.

Sartorially challenged directors aside, the event is tipped to be a return to high fashion after the past two years when war in Iraq and the September 11 attacks made red-carpet dressing less than dazzling.

"I think we're going to see a lot of colours and chiffons and very flowy goddess dresses because it's springtime and because last year was sort of a subdued year," said celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch.