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The scramble for the delicacy has a long history of disputes over closely guarded fishing spots, leading to arguments, threats, sabotage of equipment, and sometimes violence.
The first whitebait of the season goes on sale in Auckland this week, and the Auckland Fish Market expects it to sell for between $77 and $90 a kilogram.
Restaurants are also looking forward to the first whitebait of the season. The chef and owner of Vinnies Restaurant in Herne Bay, Geoff Scott, said he was "always keen to get into that as soon as the first batch comes through". His classic "omelette-sized" whitebait fritter will sell for $28 to $30.
On the West Coast, where people flock in from around the country for the high quality of the fish, tensions between whitebaiters run high.
Last year a man fired a gun at whitebaiters setting up nets in a creek near Westport.
In 2003, the Grey District Council considered regulations after disputes over whitebaiting positions on the Grey River and alleged threats of retaliation from Christchurch gang members.
"There's always something somewhere. There's just so many whitebaiters coming to the Coast," said Jim Bushby, president of the West Coast Whitebaiters Association.
"There's a lot of tension especially if there are not a lot of whitebait around. I think it's just pettiness really. A lot of them need to grow up."
People from outside the region often came in with no knowledge of the local rules and this could upset the local whitebaiters, Mr Bushby said.
At up to $65 a kilogram in the early part of the season, whitebaiters often saw the chance to make a quick buck.
West Coast police commander Inspector Iain McKenzie said people needed to use common sense.
"In the past there have sometimes been minor problems that have escalated. We are just trying to ensure people respect people's rights and privacy, and people's property, and hopefully we won't be called in.
"A few people spoil it for the majority."
The Department of Conservation said whitebaiters should stick to the rules and enforcement officers would patrol fishing sites.
DoC says whitebaiters should be careful not to carry didymo, or other aquatic pests, between rivers.
All equipment should be cleaned and dried between use in different rivers.
Rules for a fine feed
* The whitebaiting season begins today and runs until November 30.
* But on the West Coast the season is September 1 to November 14, and on the Chatham Islands from December 1 to February 29.
* No person can use more than one whitebait net at a time.
* People breaching whitebaiting regulations can be fined up to $5000.
Authorities are urging whitebaiters to avoid confrontation with rivals as the eagerly awaited fishing season starts today.
