KEY POINTS:
Herald on Sunday rating: 3.5/5
It took two attempts - through no fault of the restaurant - to get a meal at Deve. We popped in a few weeks ago and had just placed our orders when the Blonde's alimentary system issued a storm warning. The waitress who boxed up our entrees couldn't have been more obliging and I got the chance to finish the Blonde's aperitif, so the evening wasn't entirely wasted.
I was impressed with the impromptu takeaway, a flaky, puffy tartlet stuffed with caramelised onion, tomato and blue cheese and a salad of roasted pumpkin and feta with little falafel which I enjoyed while the Blonde settled her stomach with a cup of tea. And so back we went one nasty midweek evening to this unpretentious neighbourhood brasserie on the odd-shaped corner by the Kingsland railway station.
It's a nice space, a large triangular room that must have been one of those old-fashioned groceries where the brilliantined and aproned proprietor climbed a wooden ladder to fetch things down for customers. The buttery-cream paintwork suits the look of the place which has, mercifully, escaped refurbishment and pleasant artwork (for sale) on the walls adds to the atmosphere.
Our first visit to Deve, several years ago, had left a sour taste when a waitress decided to contest the Blonde's view that a piece of fish had been cooked for about 10 minutes too long and then, changing tack, started to discuss what should be done about the bit that the Blonde had already eaten. That young woman, who did not, I fear, have a great future in the hospitality trade, has moved on. The table staff are now very cheery, even when the very idea of eating in their restaurant makes you feel sick.
Deve's menu includes all the comfort-food standards on a largely meaty bill of fare, which is leavened with a choice of four salads. The Blonde was about to depart for a three-week business trip to England so this was the last decent food she was likely to see for a while. Alas, she was not feeling very hungry. She made short work of the aforementioned tartlet, giving it her seal of approval, which was comforting for me. She also ate something which, the bill informs me, was "salmon risotto cakes" but I can't remember what she thought of them and, at the time of writing, I have no idea where she is so I can't ask her.
I, meanwhile, chowed down on a small and tasty fillet of pork, which was cooked either too fast or too long or both but lacked the succulence that meat yields when carefully attended to.
My lemon syrup cake answered its description even if it was pretty dry but the Blonde said her chocolate fondant was as good as the one she'd eaten at Antoine's the previous week. (She was wrong about that, but it was damn good.)
All in all, Deve is a very solid, sensibly priced neighbourhood brasserie with welcoming service, which no doubt accounts for its perennial popularity. If the food is closer to good than excellent, it's still a consistent performer. Recommended.
Deve Brasserie
460 New North Road
Kingsland
Ph: 846 9997
www.deve.co.nz
Open Monday-Friday 10am-late; Saturday 8am-late; Sunday 8am-4pm.
Wine list: Avoids the obvious. Almost everything by the glass. Cocktails, spirits and beers too.
Vegetarians: An entrée, salad, risotto.
Watch out for: The artwork.
Sound check: Boisterous.
Bottom line: Solid, if unspectacular, neighbourhood joint.
- Detours, HoS
