James and Kate Clairmont from Craggy Range Sheep Dairy have scooped some of the top prizes at the NZ Champions of Cheese Awards 2024. Photo / Warren Buckland
James and Kate Clairmont from Craggy Range Sheep Dairy have scooped some of the top prizes at the NZ Champions of Cheese Awards 2024. Photo / Warren Buckland
It’s likely one of the reasons for the Craggy Range Sheep Dairy owners’ “David and Goliath” cheese-producing success, which resulted in their having one of the best boutique cheeses in the country.
The Hawke’s Bay couple competed against the likes of industry giants Fonterra and Whitestone and won five coveted trophies at the NZ Specialist Cheese Association Champion of Cheese Awards Gala Dinner.
“It’s a David and Goliath story. This is the first year that they have allowed all milk types to be judged in the same category,” James Clairmont told Hawke’s Bay Today.
“Historically, they had a division for cow, goat and buffalo. This year, they said everyone would compete against each other, and the sheep milk wiped the floor.”
James and Kate Clairmont from Craggy Range Sheep Dairy have scooped some of the top prizes at the NZ Champions of Cheese Awards 2024. Photo / Warren Buckland
Their perfectly palatable two-year-aged Pecorino took the lion’s share of credit, winning Champion European, Best in Class Sheep, Chef’s Choice and eventually the Champion of Champion Boutique Cheese.
“When you look at the European title, Fonterra had about three or four finalists, Whitestone had one, and then us.”
The pair also scooped the Champion Aged Flavoured award for their Cumino.
“We climbed on the stage five times. It was an entirely mind-blowing experience,” Clairmont said.
“Sheep milk has come of age. It’s come out an absolute clear winner.”
He said that while the sheep milk industry in NZ had grown significantly during the last 10 years, cheese was not a top concern for many.
“Unfortunately, it’s all export-capable protein powder; not many, if any, are doing what we are doing, sticking to our guns and making NZ cheese from it.”
Clairmont said much his cheeses’ success stems from caring for and understanding the sheep family.
“[The milk] doesn’t just turn up from the vat. Half our mob, when lambing, end up in the lounge in front of the fire, getting warmed up and getting the love,” he said.
“If the ewe isn’t happy, she won’t give you her best milk.”
Craggy Range Sheep Dairy's Pecorino and Cumino have been crowned champions at the NZ Champions of Cheese Awards. Photo / Warren Buckland
He also credited the Hawke’s Bay community and local businesses for their support, with many local operations contributing to sales success.
“We’ll never lose that community-mind and community-spirit approach to it all.”
But what does the next level look like? According to Clairmont, they are knocking on some big-name companies’ doors and eagerly eyeing expansion through growing the hospitality market.
“That looks like building a factory here on the farm so we can be export-capable, initially into the South Pacific rim.
“It’s about positioning ourselves at the top end of the scale with unwavering commitment.”
Hōhepa Hawke’s Bay, who are cheesemakers for Craggy Range Sheep Dairy, also won silver at the 2024 NZ Champions of Cheese Awards for their organic Fenugreek cheese.
Mitchell Hageman joined Hawke’s Bay Today in January 2023. From his Napier base, he writes regularly on social issues, arts and culture, and the community. He has a particular love for stories about ordinary people doing extraordinary things.
