Closer look at nectar of the gods

While most of us are happy just to drink the stuff, New Zealand's best-known wine is coming under microscopic scrutiny by scientists to find out what makes it so good.

Auckland University scientists have been mingling with pickers at Kumeu River Wines with the annual grape harvest in full swing as part of a $11.5 million Foundation for Research and Science Technology study into sauvignon blanc and other New Zealand wines.

Dr Mat Goddard, a lecturer in evolution and ecology from the university, and Masters student Casey Jun, are doing a "yeast genetics" study on Kumeu River Wines' yeast, examining both sauvignon blanc and chardonnay grapes.

The west Auckland winery is one of the few which does not add cultured yeast to fermented grapes but lets the grapes' natural yeast do all the work that produces alcohol.

Winery owner Michael Brajkovich just happens to have very good natural yeast in his vineyard.

"Using natural fermentation adds a complex flavour to the wine but it can take longer to ferment and it can be unpredictable," said Dr Goddard.

"Kumeu River Wines has a diverse range of wild yeast in its vineyard and we need to find out why."

Mr Brajkovich is happy to have the scientists lurking among the vines if it helps the vintage.

"Hopefully the results will help us do what we do better," he said.