Changing face of premature ageing

Whole industries are dedicated to "anti-ageing," but most over-the-counter anti-wrinkle products do not work, believes a specialist registered nurse in this area, Susan Devonshire.

Ms Devonshire, with more than 10 years' experience in cosmetic medical therapies, says most anti-wrinkle products available over-the-counter do not reverse or repair sun-damaged, wrinkled skin.

The most effective anti-wrinkle product is a sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of 30+.

"Daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen is the most important component of any skin-care regime," she says.

"Once lines and wrinkles have developed on the face, no amount of lotions or potions will remove them."

With age, she says, facial skin becomes thinner and the stores of collagen and elastin gradually diminish, causing looser, wrinkled skin. Photo-ageing - premature ageing of the facial skin - is caused by sun damage and can be prevented, she says.

Collagen replacement therapy, Ms Devonshire says, is a safe, non-surgical procedure that quickly softens facial lines and furrows. Tiny amounts of natural collagen are introduced into the upper layers of the skin to lift out the wrinkles and boost the skin's own store of collagen.

The treatment takes about 20 minutes, with immediate natural-looking results, and the effects can be maintained by top-up treatments about twice a year, Ms Devonshire says. While there are a number of dermal fillers available, the only products registered and approved for use in New Zealand are Zyderm/Zyplast collagen and Hylaform.

Another form of treatment called Botox involves small injections of Botulinum toxin. This selectively paralyses muscles between the eyebrows or around the eyes to give a much more refreshed look and eliminate frowning.

The effects last up to four months, Ms Devonshire says.

Photo rejuvenation - or non-ablative resurfacing - is a new development. Over three to five treatments the skin is treated with pulses of light, removing brown spots, red veins and fine lines. The skin is left smoother and more evenly toned.

"The procedure is almost painless and usually there is no down time afterwards," Ms Devonshire says. "Surgical options for rejuvenating photo-aged skin include laser therapy. Erbium and carbon-dioxide lasers vaporise away damaged, wrinkled skin with precise control.

"Pigmentation and coarse facial skin is removed, resulting in a fresher, healthier-looking appearance."

Erbium laser - the latest technology in skin resurfacing techniques - reduces healing time and "post-operative complications such as scarring, loss of pigmentation and redness."

Ms Devonshire, a collagen practitioner, is on the staff of the Skin Recovery Clinic in Lake Rd, Takapuna, and Auckland Dermatology in Newmarket.