Bodrum
111 Clyde Rd, Browns Bay
bodrumkitchen.co.nz
Ph: (09) 600 2171
Opening hours: Monday-Sunday 8am-late
Score: 4/5
Cost: $56 for two.
Set up and site: Browns Bay is a bit of a mystery when it comes to dining out. It has one of the best beachfront precincts in Auckland – which the village is finally starting to acknowledge with the number of eateries that actually face the sea. And yet, apart from a few notable exceptions, they come and go seemingly with the tide, changing name and decor on a depressingly regular rotation. It can be a rude surprise to make a return visit after a pleasant first one only to find papered-over windows instead of the clatter of happy diners. The latest to give Browns Bay a go is Bodrum, opening where my favourite morning coffee spot in the child-at-preschool days was - later a cheap and cheerful curry place for a night out with the girls. Bodrum goes for Turkish-themed mosaics, gorgeous glass chandeliers and concrete accents.
Sustenance and swill: I would have liked a few more Turkish-inspired dishes on the menu. The good burghers of the bays are becoming more bold with their eating-out choices and they can probably take a little more adventure. I have had better menemen ($18), served with feta and pide and a side of olives. Mine was a little heavy on the tomatoes and a little light on the eggs. More spices and heat would also have been welcome. My companion opted for the eggs benedict with agria rosti and house-smoked sumac salmon ($22) and pronounced it "really, really good" - but wasn't happy to find the skin still on the fillet. The benedict option that came with sujuk, toasted sliced almonds and Turkish chilli pepper flakes sounds intriguing enough for a return visit. Given the day's heat, we washed down our meals with juice ($7.50) and iced coffee ($8.50).
Service and stuff: Bodrum had opened only days before our visit, so I semi-expected chaos. But all was calm and fuss-free. Perhaps we were offered water a few too many times by a few too many people but we'd arrived in the lull between breakfast and lunch so agreed it was good practice for the new staff. It's a little confusing to have two serving areas and two seating areas as Bodrum shares space with another restaurant. But come summer and given its self-proclaimed "best view in town" this is going to draw in the afternoon crowds wanting a place in the shade and a tasty bite or two. I hope it lasts longer than its predecessors.