Ask Lonely Planet: Go exploring to find Hawaii's real gems

A view from the summit of Leahi, also known as Diamond Head, the mildly arched Waikiki Beach and Honolulu City can be seen. Photo / Supplied

My wife and I are off to Honolulu towards the end of December for 10 days. We're interested in things to do, things perhaps that are not on the well-beaten tourist track. Any tips?
James Clark

You're right, Hawaii can seem like a tropical cliche if you only stick to the main tourist areas. But there's a lot more to see than just cookie-cutter beach resorts and tacky souvenir shops.

Even in Waikiki, you can escape the crowds by taking a stroll down Kapahulu Avenue, which runs inland from the south end of the beach. Not many tourists get to know downtown Honolulu. Start off by exploring Chinatown on a guided walking tour offered by the Hawaii Heritage Centre (808 521 2749), before perusing this revitalised neighbourhood's galleries and antique shops. Some of downtown Honolulu's museums are hidden gems, like the island-themed Hawaii State Art Museum (808 586 0900). Another museum, the Honolulu Academy of Arts (808 532 8700), offers guided tours of Shangri La, Doris Duke's former private estate near Diamond Head - today, it's a priceless repository of Islamic art and architecture.

There's no better way to connect with locals and the landscape than by getting out on Oahu's forest and waterfall trails. In the hills right above downtown Honolulu, you can hike from near the Lyon Arboretum to Manoa Falls and beyond to the head-spinning Nuuanu Valley Lookout, which peeks through the pali (mountains) over to Oahu's lush windward side.

Speaking of the Windward Coast, when you're good and ready to leave the crowded beaches of Waikiki behind, head for Kailua or Waimanalo Bay, both postcard-perfect beaches that are rarely crowded. From Kailua Beach, you can kayak over to uninhabited offshore islands for a lazy afternoon of snorkeling with sea turtles. But for that ultimate end-of-the-world feeling, drive around Oahu's famous North Shore, which bustles with surf shops and bohemian beachside hangouts, to undeveloped Kaena Point State Park. Here, at the island's westernmost point, is where ancient Hawaiians believed that the souls of the departed leapt into the afterlife. After seeing its heartbreakingly lonely beauty and dramatic ocean vistas for yourself, you might become a believer in Hawaii's mana (spiritual power), too.

In love with India

My husband is keen for us to visit India in February/March. Unfortunately we will only have three to four weeks, but he says we can revisit more places with more time in the future. I've always wanted to see the Taj Mahal, but we're not into touristy travelling and wonder if a short visit to Mumbai would be better?
Jane Ranum

Touristy it is, but the Taj Mahal is definitely worth a visit! Even packed with crowds, it's deeply atmospheric - you can almost feel the love that Shah Jahan had for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, for whom the mausoleum was built. Because it's open from dawn till dusk, you can avoid the crowds by hitting it at the very start or the end of the day, which is also when it's most picturesque (and photogenic). The Taj works well on a Mumbai-Delhi itinerary. Mumbai is worth a week of your time but bear in mind that it can be hot and humid in March. Start your trip with some time in the city and take in the stunning Anglo-Indian architecture, the sleek lounges full of Bombay's beautiful people, the great food, art, and shopping, and the throbbing whirlwind of people and traditions from around the country. You could also take a day at Elephanta, a small island just off Mumbai's southeast coast, and get a taste of the ancient caves that pepper this part of the country.

Make your way up to Rajasthan, which is popular with travellers, but for good reason: its ancient forts and palaces combine with its dreamy desert landscape and bright traditional clothing to create an Indian fairytale setting. The tourist infrastructure works in your favour here: it's easy to get around fast. Stop first at Udaipur and stay in its special palace hotel in the middle of a lake. There are lots of good day trips around here, as well as near Pushkar and Jaipur, which you should stop in at on your way up to the Taj Mahal. Another option would be to spend less time in Rajasthan and, on the way up from Mumbai, visit the caves of Ajanta (with its exquisite paintings) and Ellora (with its breathtaking sculpture). Both are near the convenient transport hub of Aurangabad.

From Rajasthan, head north to see the awe-inspiring Taj on your way to Delhi, from where you could either fly back home or take a quick flight back to Mumbai.

* This is the letter of the week and Jane Ranum has been sent a Lonely Planet guide to India.

Win a Lonely Planet guide book

Get the information you need to make your big trip a success. Email your travel questions to travel.info@lonelyplanet.com and they'll be answered by Lonely Planet's experts.

In addition the best question each week will earn a Lonely Planet guide book. To give yourself a chance to win add your postal address and the guide book you'd like to receive. You can find out about Lonely Planet books at www.LonelyPlanet.com. Not all questions are necessarily answered and Lonely Planet cannot correspond directly with readers, or give advice outside the column.