KEY POINTS:
A climber who watched his brother fall to his death from a notorious ridge on Mt Cook, is lucky to be alive after two "horrific" nights high on the mountain.
Bad weather forced Australians Miles Vinar, 42, and Dr Mark Vinar, 43, to abandon their attempt on the 3750m summit and they were descending from Zurbriggen Ridge when Mark fell.
Recovering at the Hermitage hotel in Mt Cook village yesterday, after being plucked from the mountain by helicopter, Miles told Constable Les Andrew from Omarama police how he watched his brother fall.
"They were coming down and came to a snow slope with a steep drop-off," Andrew told the Herald On Sunday.
"Miles had to climb down using an icepick and crampons. He instructed Mark about it, but for some reason Mark lost his footing and fell backwards and started rolling."
Mark, a GP and experienced hiker who has traversed some of the world's most treacherous peaks and glaciers, kept sliding, unable to arrest his fall with his iceaxe.
"He went behind some rocks, then appeared again rolling down the hill. He went down about 500m and then disappeared. Miles was adamant there was no way Mark would have survived."
A helicopter started searching for the climbers at first light yesterday. Miles was picked up by the helicopter "fit and healthy" about 6.30am.
The search for his brother was called off later in the morning and he is presumed dead after falling into a crevasse or being buried under snow.
The area could be searched only by air because of avalanche risk.
Andrew said Miles accepted why the search had been abandoned.
"He understands because he was up there and knows the terrain. It's phenomenal the amount of movement." '
Family members in Perth were too distressed to talk yesterday but in a statement they said they were reeling at news of Mark's death. "He was doing something he loved and was with someone that loved him very much. He will be deeply missed and words cannot express the void that will remain with us."
The two climbers were reported overdue by guides at Plateau Hut on Friday after being flown into the area eight days ago.
After Mark had fallen from view, Miles continued to descend but conditions were so bad he spent two days and nights dug into the snow to wait for rescue. The tent and cooker had fallen with his brother.
Andrew said the surviving climber had spent a "horrific" time on the mountain, sheltering in an ice cave with slips and avalanches cascading around him. "Without question he is a strong person."
Miles had switched his headtorch setting to blink and the signal was seen by guides at Plateau Hut.
A helicopter with a Department of Conservation alpine rescue team was sent to pick him up.
Andrew said the brothers were experienced climbers and had visited the area four times before, as well as climbing Mt Aspiring. They were training for an attempt on Alaska's Mt McKinley.
Andrew said Miles intended to give a press conference this morning before driving to Christchurch to fly back to Perth.
Mark's death was the second on Aoraki-Mt Cook in eight days.
Japanese climbing guide Kiyoshi Ikenouchi died on December 5 while his friend and climbing companion Hideaki Nara was rescued after being stranded for a week.
More than 200 people have died on the mountain, including 18 Australians.
