Winter seafood and the role of a good fish stock

Get the stock right and a seafood chowder is a luxurious winter dream. Photo / Babiche Martens

Winter is a time for hearty, warming dishes that offer both comfort and nourishment. Seafood, with its rich flavours and versatility, is perfect for creating satisfying winter meals.

Seafood can be the star of many winter dishes, from creamy chowders to robust stews. The freshness and lightness of seafood balance well with heavier winter ingredients like root vegetables and legumes, providing a nutritious and flavourful meal.

The key to many winter seafood dishes is the inclusion of fish stock, a foundational element that enhances the depth and complexity of the final product. Here’s a look at how to make the most of winter seafood and the role that fish stock plays in these dishes.

Fish stock is an essential component in many seafood recipes, acting as the backbone of the dish. Homemade fish stock, in particular, offers a fresh, clean taste that store-bought versions often lack. It can be used in a variety of ways:

• Soups and chowders: Fish stock provides a rich base for clam chowder, fish soup, and bisques.
• Stews and risottos: It enhances the depth of seafood stews and risottos, bringing out the natural flavours of the seafood.
• Sauces: Use fish stock to create a velvety sauce for dishes like poached fish or seafood pasta.

The basics

Homemade fish stock is superior to store-bought versions for several reasons: fresh ingredients result in a stock with a cleaner, more robust flavour profile; making your own stock allows you to control the ingredients and flavour intensity, avoiding preservatives and additives found in commercial options; and you can tailor the stock to suit your specific needs, adjusting herbs and aromatics to complement your recipes.

• Preparation: Rinse fish bones and trimmings thoroughly to remove any blood, which can impart a bitter taste.
• Sauté aromatics: In a large pot, sauté onions, leeks and celery in a small amount of oil until softened.
• Simmer: Add the fish bones, water and any herbs you’re using. Bring to a gentle simmer. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface to keep the stock clear.
• Cook time: Simmer for 20-30 minutes. Overcooking can lead to a bitter taste and cloudy stock.
• Strain: Strain the stock through a fine sieve or cheesecloth to remove solids. Cool quickly if not using immediately to prevent bacterial growth.

Tips for making fish stock

• Always use the freshest fish bones available. Fresh bones produce a cleaner, more delicate stock. You can use the heads, spines, ribs, and tails of mild, non-oily white-fleshed fish.
• Be cautious with strong-flavoured herbs and vegetables. The goal is to enhance the fish flavour, not overpower it.
• Avoid boiling the stock vigorously. Instead, simmer gently to extract maximum flavour without bitterness.
• Skim off any foam or impurities that rise to the surface to keep the stock clear.
• Use a fine sieve or cheesecloth to strain the stock, ensuring a clear and smooth liquid.
• Fish stock can be refrigerated for up to three days or frozen for up to three months. Freeze in ice cube trays for easy portioning.

Try this fish stock recipe here. Where a recipe calls for a vege stock, if you’ve made your own fish stock, you’ll definitely want to use that instead.

Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in publishing for nearly 20 years. Fanatical about food and seeing the world, when not travelling, eating, cooking or writing about those – recent stories include making the most of mince, how to cook dried beans and where we should really be storing tomato sauce and chocolate.