Winter melon: A versatile but overlooked ingredient

A piece of ash gourd (also known as winter melon/ white gourd). Photo / Getty Images

Winter melon, also known as ash gourd or white gourd, is a versatile yet underappreciated ingredient in many kitchens. Despite its name, winter melon is not commonly associated with winter but is, in fact, a summer fruit that stores well into the colder months, hence its moniker. Here’s everything you need to know about this intriguing ingredient.

What is winter melon?

Winter melon is a large, oblong fruit with a waxy green exterior and a white, spongy interior. It’s commonly used in Asian cuisine, particularly in soups and stews, where its mild flavour absorbs and enhances the taste of other ingredients. Despite being a fruit, it’s treated more like a vegetable in cooking. When cooked, the flesh becomes soft and slightly translucent and has a smooth, almost velvety mouthfeel, and depending on how it’s prepared, it can range from mildly crunchy to fully tender, similar to cooked cucumber or zucchini.

Health benefits: Winter melon is low in calories and high in water content, making it a hydrating addition to meals. It’s also a good source of dietary fibre, which aids digestion, and contains vitamins and minerals such as vitamin C and potassium.

Seasonality and availability in New Zealand: Winter melon is typically harvested in late summer and can be stored for several months, making it available throughout the winter (hence its name). In New Zealand, it can be found in Asian grocery stores and some specialty markets. Although not widely used in Western cooking, it’s a staple in many Asian dishes.

Why don’t we know much about it in New Zealand? Winter melon’s lack of popularity in Western kitchens could be due to its subtle flavour and unfamiliarity to many cooks. It’s often overshadowed by more common vegetables and fruits, but its versatility and ability to complement a wide range of dishes make it worth exploring.

How to choose one: Look for winter melon in Asian supermarkets, where it’s typically sold in large chunks or whole. When selecting winter melon, choose one with a firm, unblemished skin and a slightly waxy surface. If buying a whole melon, it should feel heavy for its size.

How can I use winter melon at home?

Winter melon’s mild, almost neutral taste makes it incredibly versatile. When raw, winter melon has a crisp texture similar to cucumber and a mild, slightly sweet flavour.

It can be sliced or diced and added to salads or served as a refreshing accompaniment to various dishes. However, it is more often cooked in soups, stews and stir-fries, where it absorbs the flavours of other ingredients.

A classic preparation is winter melon soup, made with chicken or pork, ginger and herbs. The melon softens during cooking, becoming tender while retaining its shape. Winter melon can even used in sweet dishes - in Chinese cuisine, it’s sometimes candied and used in desserts or as a filling for pastries.

Winter melon may not be a staple in every kitchen, but its versatility and ability to absorb flavours make it a valuable ingredient for adventurous cooks. Whether you’re making a traditional Asian soup or experimenting with new recipes, winter melon is an ingredient worth discovering.

Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including the pantry items with the longest shelf lives, how to get the most out of vinegar, and whether spreads, condiments and chocolate go in the fridge or pantry.