HERALD ON SUNDAY RATING: * * * *
KEY POINTS:
It seemed a little excessive to have the place painted entirely black. As I arrived at Winehot I had almost forgotten the All Blacks' quadrennial doomed pilgrimage.
But what is this? Le patron Julien LeQuere has dressed the place in mourning. Only a couple of gaudy mirrors and a tricolore hanging limp by the bar relieve the gloom.
Is this a display of the victor's gracious empathy for the vanquished?
No such luck. M LeQuere is a proud Frenchman and, having spent a bit of time in Bordeaux, he is a keen rugby follower. But as he offered his assessment of the game ("It is a miracle") I realised that the black livery was not funereal for the occasion. It's always gloomy in here, and they give you little candles for your table to augment the diffuse light that comes in through frosted windows.
Winehot is a wine bar with food, rather than a restaurant, which may go some way towards explaining why almost half our bill was for what might be described as non-food items. It has a "wine menu" and a "food menu" and the food is divided into sections titled "to share" and "more like a main". This is a place where you come predominantly to drink, and the host's responsibility goes further than bowls of salt-and-vinegar chips.
I am not a wine connoisseur and am more likely to say "that's pretty damn good" than "I'm getting nougat, gherkins and lawn clippings after summer rain."
The Blonde, whose taste runs to single-malt Scotch whisky, which I buy for her, tends to have what I'm having, which means I order a glass of wine and try to keep her sticky fingers off it, and she reminds me that I drank most of her birthday present, which is true.
But it so happened that our companions for the evening included a man who works as a cellarhand at a West Auckland winery and so I emerged with a wine vocabulary much improved (he's the one who gave me the nougat idea).
The big discovery of the night was the 2006 chardonnay from Otuwhero Estate in Marlborough (I was getting capsicum) which rejoices in the playful name O:Tu. After a glass of that I was feeling playful too and reflected that, when you put on a French accent, "Winehot" and "Why not?" sound exactly the same so I said "Winehot" - or perhaps "Why not?" - and ordered another.
The food was just fine, without being remarkable: the steak frites came as a delicious scotch fillet with crisp shoestrings, the fish was succulent grilled gurnard on a cauliflower puree and the lamb, a rack, was pink and moist.
The next time I won't go for dinner, and perhaps try one of their tasting platters instead. But it's nice to have the option. Sante.
Winehot
605 New North Rd
Morningside
Ph: 815 9463
Open: Tuesday to Saturday from 5pm
Wine list: Mais oui. Old World, New World, bottle, small glass (125ml) and large (225ml). Three dozen in the cellar selection right up to a premier cru for $240.
Vegetarians: Snacks and one main
Watch out for: That stemless Riedel crystal - the management asks you to take care.
Sound check: The music can be a bit much.
Bottom line: Cheers. Et bon appetit.
THE BILL
$240 for four
Bread and dips $9
Fish (2) $46
Steak frites $21
Lamb $27
Desserts $9
Wine $106
Cigars $10
- Detours, HoS
