KEY POINTS:
After starting out as a ballerina in South Africa and more recently as an employment advocate in Auckland, a "mid-life crisis" made Diane Holding take stock of her career. Several vintages and wine qualifications later, rather than being bound to a desk in the city, she's now to be found out tending her biodynamic vines in the Waipara hills or checking on her prized barrels of pinot noir.
Holding's decision to completely retrain as winemaker-viticulturalist in her late thirties, sell up and invest everything with husband Ian in their Fancrest vineyard may be a somewhat extreme path into wine. However, she's one of an increasing number of people entering New Zealand's rapidly expanding wine industry and finding their dream job there.
If you've ever contemplated a career as a winemaker or viticulturalist, be warned: the hours are long, the work is often physically demanding and the level of expertise requiredis high.
"It's not as romantic a business as a lot of people think," agrees Glen Creasy, co-ordinator for the Viticulture and Oenology courses at Lincoln University, New Zealand's main centre for wine study.
"There's a lot of hard work involved, but a lot of the people we get in here are very enthusiastic about it and are looking for the lifestyle associated with the industry."
Before committing to a wine course, he recommends budding vignerons to get some experience in working in a winery and vineyard, ideally in a range of countries. "This will help in them in developing their own style and deciding on what kind of position they would like in the industry," he advises.
"You really need to be confident, thick-skinned, adaptable and full of energy," says Seresin winemaker, Clive Dougall. "Above all, you need to have a burning passion for wine."
So if you think you've got what it takes, how do you go about becoming a winemaker or viticulturalist? There are those who are completely self-taught, who've usually spent many years learning their craft on the job. However, most have studied for professional qualifications offered by educational establishments across the country, such as the three-year viticulture and oenology degree taught at Lincoln, or the one-year honours or graduate diploma course popular with graduates switching to wine after starting their studies in another discipline.
There are also many other institutions that offer other courses of varying length and depth. And if you're unable to travel to one of these, there are a number of distance learning options, such as the correspondence course from Australia's Charles Sturt University taken by Holding, or the recently instigated online diploma in viticulture and wine production offered by the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology.
Those bitten by the winemaking/growing bug revel in the creativity of the role and being part of the production of such a fascinating product surrounded by people who share their passion.
As for Holding, there's no going back to that desk in Auckland. "I have absolutely no regrets," she states, "just don't ask me that in the middle of a difficult harvest!"
TASTE TEMPTERS
ROBUST RHONE
Domaine Alary La Gerbaude Cotes du Rhone 2005 $22.50
This sturdy and savoury Cotes du Rhone is made by the 10th generation of this Cairanne-based family, combining ripe and concentrated cherry fruit with spice, liquorice and earthy, gamey layers and a nice bit of tannic bite - a lot going on in it at this modest price.
From Maison Vauron, Point Wines, The Wine Vault, First Glass.
CLASSY CHARDY
Brunton Road Gisborne Chardonnay 2007 $24.65
A textural and toasty chardonnay from this relatively new family-owned boutique winery that has recently added to its estate with the purchase of Gisborne's historic Matawhero Wines. Made in an elegant racy style, this chardonnay possesses attractive peach fruit, hints of cashew and smoke supported by a fresh spine of citrus.
From Liquorland Newmarket, Millar & Co, Milford Cellars.
PINOT WITH POISE
Tirohana Estate Martinborough Pinot Noir 2006 $55
A deeply impressive, finely structured and velvety textured pinot from this Martinborough estate that's full of ripe spiced plums integrated with toasty oak. Snap up the last stocks direct from the winery - www.tirohanaestate.com.
