Not all the smart, sought-after pinot noir is coming out of Central Otago, Martinborough or Waipara. Ignore Marlborough at your peril, as the local producers, anxious to avoid the one-trick-pony of sauvignon blanc, are forging ahead with this varietal.
Initially Marlborough was so consumed with its worldwide reputation for super sauvignon blanc that other varietals tended to be overlooked. But a balanced portfolio makes a lot of sense and now, with some vine age, meticulous winemaking and a determination to succeed, Marlborough pinot noir is no longer an oxymoron.
Often described as sitting between the bright, fruit-driven, herbaceous style of Central Otago and the more truffle-infused, barnyard flavours of Martinborough and Waipara, Marlborough is developing its own distinctive character.
There are serious pinot winemakers in the Marlborough hills and they are starting to strut their stuff with all the confidence and aplomb of Corey Jane or Israel Dagg under the high ball.
Although the climate may be too cool to enable cabernet sauvignon and merlot to fully and consistently ripen, it has turned out to be ideal for some of the country's best pinot noir. Producers with an excellent track record here include Churton, Clos Henri, Cloudy Bay, Delta, Dog Point, Fromm, Hans Herzog, Nautilus, Seresin and Wither Hills.