Wine: New maker, new focus

2010 Akarua Riesling, $25.50. Photo / Natalie Slade

So where do you look to diversify when you've already got substantial interests in seafood, shipping, tourism and property?

If you're used to holidaying in Central Otago and enjoy wine, what better challenge than your own winery? Former Dunedin Mayor Sir Clifford Skeggs purchased a property at Akarua in 1995 and commenced planting in 1996. Today Akarua is the largest family-owned single vineyard and winery in Central Otago.

Son David is now at the helm and ready to take the enterprise to the next level. This has led to a complete overhaul, including a new racier label, additional investment in the winery to cope with increased production and a new winemaker, Matt Connell.

Formerly at Olssens, Connell developed his passion for pinot at Elk Cove Wines in Oregon, United States. But Akarua is not just about pinot. The first riesling is a triumph and will no doubt become a staple wine. Says Connell, "We don't want to use other people's fruit, we want all our wine to be estate-grown." Connell is very particular about where he wants to take the Akarua wines. "We're moving beyond primary fruit and getting wines that are a little denser. I'm a visual, aromatic person and I like to spend a lot of time looking, thinking and blending."

The "long-serving" member of the team is viticulturalist Gillian Wilson, whose dedicated focus on the vines from the beginning, ensures the winemaking department has the finest raw materials to play with.

"I had always admired the vineyard site and the wines that the site had produced and couldn't wait to get my hands on the amazing fruit," says Connell.

He has exacting standards for winemaking and winery hygiene. With pinot noir, the main focus, he aims to make rounded but concentrated, soft, but structured styles that show balance and finesse, rather than largesse. The top-end wine, the Akarua Reserve pinot noir will always highlight what he considers to be the very best attributes of the site: power, richness and complexity.

The 2009 vintage certainly ticks all those boxes and at around $50-$55 is very reasonable for such a quality drop.

Says Connell, "Wine's about life, it has to come from the heart."

The new boy at Akarua speaks the truth.

RECOMMENDED

2010 Akarua Riesling, $25.50
The vineyard's first riesling is delicious. A medium style, light, lean and clean, with lashings of lemon and lime and aromas of white peach and wet stone. (available exclusively from akarua.com)

2009 Rua Pinot Noir, $25.50
Akarua's astonishingly good, inexpensive entry level pinot. This is a genuine "more bang for your buck" wine and more than over-delivers. Typical Central Otago juicy blackberry fruit with savoury highlights and a soft, bright finish.